Gentian South Snowdonia Trip (6th-8th October 2023)

My first Gentian weekend of the autumn took me back to a bunkhouse I had previously stayed in in 2007 and 2012 with CUHWC: the Stafford Mountain Club’s cosy Bryn Hafod hut at the head of Cwm Cywarch, near Dinas Mawddwy. I was looking forward to refreshing my acquaintance with the place, and to seeing the regular club members again, a few months having passed since the last trip.

I took the Friday off work to spend an extra day in the hills. Claire had arranged to get a lift to Wales with me and met me at my house at 9am. The drive west was without significant delay, and we met Sheena in a layby near the bottom of Arenig Fawr soon after 11:30. The weather didn’t look promising so we got our waterproofs jackets on from the start, heading back along the lane for a mile or so, then along the good track to Llyn Arenig Fawr. There we chatted briefly with a couple of men who were whitewashing the inside of the tiny MBA bothy by the dam.

We continued up the well-walked path up the ridge of Y Castell, soon pausing to put on waterproof trousers as the mist was very damp and carried a little light rain with it. Sadly we didn’t get any views higher up the hill. We were surprised to see one other walker going up and two coming down. We paused for a late lunch in a sheltered spot below the ridge, then made our way up over the final craggy section to the trig point and memorial to the American airmen killed in a plane crash on the hill in WW2.

The south-westerly wind was pretty severe on the summit ridge, so we abandoned our plan to continue to Moel Llyfnant and instead returned by our more sheltered route of ascent. The cloud had lifted slightly to give somewhat better views over the lake, but there wasn’t much else to note. Anyway, it’s always good to get out on the hill!
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2412126

The drive over the steep and narrow Bwlch y Groes road to Cwm Cywarch took around 40 minutes, after which we made two trips on foot from the car, half a mile up the valley to the bunkhouse, to carry all the luggage and provisions in. Ted, Martin and Mick had arrived a short while earlier, and the six of us were the full complement for this trip! Ted cooked an evening meal for us, enjoyed over wine from the Gentian bar as ever.

I was on breakfast duty for the weekend, so rose a few minutes earlier than the others on Saturday morning to prepare the porridge and toast. After that, with the bunkhouse being so well located at the foot of the hills, we all opted to walk directly from there. I led Mick and Claire on a clockwise route over Glasgwm and Aran Fawddwy, while Ted led Martin and Sheena on an anticlockwise one going further north to Aran Benllyn but omitting Glasgwm.

We ascended by the good zigzagging track below the dramatic crags of Craig Cywarch to the minor summit of Y Gribin, then continued north up the fence-line to Glasgwm, which has a small tarn near the summit cairn. Although we didn’t have any views up to this point, it was clear that blue skies were not far away, as we had glimpses of them from the top.

The descent north was quite steep and rocky, which Mick found tricky. By the bottom, he had decided that it would be better if he left Claire and me to walk ahead to Aran Fawddwy while he took the more direct route down over Drysgol. We continued together, enjoying increasing breaks in the cloud, as far as Gwaun Llwyni, where we paused for lunch in the sunshine with a grand view down Cwm Cywarch.

Then Claire and I walked more briskly up the ridge to the rocky summit of Aran Fawddwy, its trig point poised dramatically above the eastern cliffs that plunge down towards the waters of Creiglyn Dyfi. We paused for a while at the summit to take in the excellent views in all directions, particularly towards Cadair Idris and the Rhinogs. The high hills of northern Snowdonia remained in the cloud though.

We descended by good paths over Drysgol, then over much rougher, boggier ground to the head of Cwm Terwyn to pick up the southern of the two public footpaths shown on the map. Although its line was very clear on an easy-angled, man-made terrace, the going was disappointingly awkward through tussocky grass and reeds, and rather boggy in places, so we were glad to make it down to the easy ground by the farm at Ty’n-y-maes. From there, it was an easy mile or so back up the lane to the bunkhouse.

By chance, we caught up with Mick right at the bottom of the Hengwm path (by which he had descended) and walked the final few minutes together, arriving around 6pm. We enjoyed tea, cake and hot showers while we waited for the others, who got back an hour later, making full use of the available daylight!
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2412130

The evening meal consisted of soup provided by Ted, followed by an excellent beef curry prepared by Mick for the meat-eaters, and Sheena’s crumble for dessert. All very tasty and filling! We chatted around the fire until retiring to bed a bit before midnight.

After Sunday breakfast, we all spent some time packing our stuff and tidying up the hut. Claire had expressed interest in a walk up Rhobell Fawr, and I was happy to oblige, it being more than 10 years since my last ascent. The others opted to walk from the hut again, up Glasgwm and Pen y Brynnfforchog, so we said our farewells before setting off for the 20 minute drive to the village of Rhydymain.

This time it was sunny from the start of the day. We ascended on good tracks up the southern flank of the hill to about 450m, before striking off up the steep, grassy and rocky slopes for the final 300m climb to the summit. This side of the hill is more impressive than the north side from which I approached previously!

As we climbed, Aran Fawddwy dominated the view to the east, while the ridge of Cadair Idris looked impressive to the west. Then from the summit, most of the other hills of Snowdonia came into view. We admired the distinctive outline of the Rhinogs, and could clearly see Moel Hebog, the Nantlle Ridge, Snowdon, the Glyders and the southern Carneddau in the distance to the northwest. Arenig Fawr, which we had climbed on Friday, was not far away to the north too.

We descended a short distance to find shelter for lunch, then continued down a grassy path to the edge of the forest to the east. We followed the signposted, but very boggy, rides through the forest to reach the open ground the other side for a very rough ascent over tussocky grass and heather to Dduallt.

After taking in the views there for a few minutes, we weren’t very keen to return to the saddle the same way, so gambled on a descent along the fence-line northwest. This turned out to be much easier underfoot, with another (less wet) forest ride providing an easy escape to the track at the bottom. That just left a few miles of easy track and lane walking, over the ridge and back down to Rhydymain, arriving around 5pm. Another clear drive got us back to my house before 8pm, giving plenty of time to eat, shower, unpack and get things sorted ready for the working week.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2412133

It was great to spend another weekend with the Gentian Club, and to return to some excellent hills that I hadn’t been to for ages. I look forward to the Annual Dinner next month!
As ever, my full photo album can be enjoyed on Google Photos, here.