New Year in Aviemore (28th December 2024 – 4th January 2025)

This year, for the first time, my New Year week in the Highlands was a solo one. Ruth and Josh had decided they would instead stay with some of the younger Duffers, and a swarm of Dufflings, in a large holiday cottage in Glenelg on the west coast. But I don’t have sufficient tolerance for living among small children to do so for a full week, nor as close a friendship with that group, and preferred to do my own thing. I found that Aviemore Youth Hostel have a couple of private single rooms, so that was a convenient and inexpensive choice with plenty of walking options nearby to suit all weather conditions.

I drove north from Kendal on Saturday 28th, pausing at Talkin Tarn Country Park, east of Carlisle, for a parkrun on the way. I wasn’t feeling very energetic and finished in a disappointing 20:30 despite the course being a little under distance, not muddy and only slightly undulating. Nevertheless, it’s a scenic course and it was good to get a little exercise before continuing my drive.

The roads were quiet and I made good time to Aviemore, pausing in Perth for lunch, petrol and some groceries. I arrived around 3pm and was able to check in earlier than advertised. The room was basic but fairly spacious and had everything I needed, and I was pleased to find that the kitchen also had plenty of storage and fridge space to share.

Sunday’s forecast was for a moderately windy day with some rain arriving later, so I got a dawn start at Glenmore Lodge for a walk up Bynack More. While walking up to An Lochan Uaine, I passed a couple of pairs of walkers going the other way with overnight kit. We didn’t stop to talk but I assume they’d spent the night at Ryvoan bothy. The track gives easy walking and I was soon at the bridge over the River Nethy, and could see that the summit of Bynack More was clear although there was lower cloud over Cairn Gorm. After a spell of mild weather, there was almost no snow on the hills.

Looking across the River Nethy to Bynack More

As I continued up the ridge path, I passed two young men descending, who had been to the summit and warned it was extremely windy. They must have started well before first light! The gusts did get extremely strong as I got higher up, but I wasn’t worried about sometimes getting blown a few paces off the path as the ground to the side was not steep. Before long I was at the summit, where I was able to find a bit of shelter behind the tors.

There were good views southeast to Ben Avon, Beinn a’ Bhuird and Beinn a’ Chaorainn, but the higher hills further west were in the cloud. I decided to pop down the ridge to the Barns of Bynack for a different vantage point, somewhat regretting that decision when it was a real battle against the wind to return to the summit! Soon, though, I was heading back down the north ridge, the wind gradually dropping as I lost height, and I was back at the car before any rain arrived.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2837131

Looking towards Beinn a’ Chaorainn and Beinn Mheadhoin

Monday was forecast to improve to showers after overnight rain cleared. I opted to head to the Monadhliath hills, where I could bag a new Graham, Creag Liath, with the option of continuing over one or more Munros if conditions and motivation suited. I parked at the head of Glen Banchor a bit before 10am and waited a few minutes for the rain to stop as I could see brighter skies approaching. Sure enough, it did stop and I was able to avoid putting my full waterproofs on. A group of five walkers set off towards A’ Chailleach (Munro) while I waited.

Allt a’ Chaorainn in spate, just beyond the Glen Banchor car park

Creag Liath is actually only a short detour from the standard route up the Munro Carn Dearg, so the path most of the way is pretty well-walked and there’s a helpful footbridge over the Allt Fionndrigh – essential as the rivers were in spate after the wet night. The summit gave decent views over flooded Speyside. As I could see Carn Dearg was also just about clear, I decided to continue that way.

Carn Ballach and Geal Charn, from Creag Liath

Glen Ballach was very boggy so it was good to reach the firmer ground of the final ramp up to the Munro summit. The ridge has attractive crags on its east side. An unusual fogbow briefly appeared as cloud swirled below them.

I sheltered behind the cairn to put on an extra layer, as the wind was cold, and to consult the map. I reckoned if I walked fast I’d be able to visit the other two Munros and get back to the car before dark, so that became the plan. It’s about 8km along the ridge to Carn Sgulain, but it must be some of the easiest terrain between Munros, with no large or steep ascents or descents, and navigation made easy by a faint path and very clear line of old fenceposts the entire way.

Carn Sgulain was in mist and time was short, so I didn’t linger there, setting a compass bearing to cross the upper reaches of the Allt Cuil na Caillich northwest of A’ Chailleach. It was only a ten minute climb from there to the summit, which was just about clear with blue skies to the south of the large cairn.

It was only an hour before sunset, so I pressed on quickly, following the ridge a short distance west then descending the obvious but very boggy ATV track into the valley of Allt a’ Chaorainn. It was clear that the river was not crossable where the main path is marked, so I continued down the west bank to find the footbridge marked further downstream – somewhat hidden out of sight among trees but it’s there if you need it!

That just left 1.5km down a track to the car. I was not expecting to find a runner doing hill sprint repeats in that fairly remote spot, in the twilight ten minutes after sunset! Presumably he’d run up from Newtonmore for his workout as he was running back down the lane that way as I drove out. With the three Munros added, it had ended up being quite a long day (27km) but it was good to have made the most of the dry weather.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2838191

Tuesday looked wetter, with warnings of more flooding, so I decided to climb a Graham north of Carrbridge. I parked on the B-road near Auchterteang, and set off when there seemed to be the biggest gap between showers on the rainfall radar! That worked pretty well as I got almost to the summit before the next rain arrived. Most of the ascent was on a good Land Rover track, with just a short trot along the boggy ridge to the trig point. There was a light dusting of fresh snow on the ground, unlike the previous two days, and the temperature was much lower. I got brief views of the high Cairngorms in the brightest moments.

To make a circular route, I continued along the heathery ridge to Creag na h-Iolaire, visiting a few rocky ‘cnaps’ along the way, before descending by another track to reach my outward route a couple of kilometres above Auchterteang. I had need to put on full waterproofs, but the rain had only amounted to a couple of sharp showers.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2838964

I didn’t bother to stay up to see the New Year in. There didn’t seem to be any kind of celebration at the hostel as the residents who wanted to party headed into town for the purpose. More snow fell overnight, and the weather was set to improve through New Year’s Day, so I decided to head for another Munro, Meall Chuaich, which has an adjacent Graham I could include on the way up. The A9 was clear of snow so it was an easy drive up to Dalwhinnie to park in a layby around 10am. There were several other cars parked there, with one group of four just setting off – clearly a popular choice for New Year’s Day, thanks to the easy road access after snowfall I suppose.

After a couple of kilometres on the access road beside the Cuaich aqueduct, I diverted off the main Munro-baggers’ route to cross over the small hydro dam and ascend the heathery slopes the other side of the valley. That led me quite quickly to the summit of Creag Ruadh, the Graham. There were some reasonable views over Speyside, Drumochter and the surrounding hills, but all the Munro summits were in cloud.

Misty Meall Chuaich from the summit of Creag Ruadh

A short descent took me to the dam of Loch Cuaich, then a short walk along tracks got me back onto the main Munro route from the bridge over the Allt Coire Chuaich. I could see the group of four, now well ahead of course, as well as a couple of solo walkers descending. The ascent was straightforward, with the snow soft and not too slippery. Sadly the summit did not clear by the time I got there, just as the group were setting off back down.

The wind was bitterly cold so I only paused very briefly at the large cairn. It was only when I was back on the track in the valley that the summit actually cleared and some decent blue patches began to appear in the sky. There were some glimpses of Ben Alder along Loch Ericht, and the large corries of Carn na Caim looked good in the snow. I was back at the car by 3pm, so perhaps starting an hour later might have given me better conditions, but 11am seems too late to start on a winter Munro day!
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2839678

Looking back along the aqueduct to Creag Ruadh and Meall Chuaich

The Met Office thought there was a good chance of cloud-free summits by afternoon on Thursday (although the MWIS did not agree!). I decided to be optimistic and have a go at climbing Braeriach, as it would be good to visit one of the very high Cairngorm peaks during my trip. My plan was again to start at 10am and move fast to get the best of the day. There had been more fresh snow overnight, but the road up to the Sugarbowl car park was fully clear. I was surprised to find someone gritting the steps on the footpath down to the Allt Mor bridge, soon after I set off!

Initially, I was following several other sets of footprints towards the Chalamain Gap, and I hoped these would continue towards Braeriach. However, after a while I caught up with the family who had made them and it was clear that the high mountains were not their objective for the day, so I had to make my own footsteps thereafter. The boulder-filled groove of the Chalamain Gap was just as awkward in fresh snow as I remembered it from my last winter ascent of Braeriach with a few duffers 17 years earlier (to the day!). Nevertheless, I had soon clambered through without any twisted ankles and was back on the easy path down into the Lairig Ghru.

Soon after starting to ascend the other side, I reached the cloud-base at around 700m. The path was quite distinct to start off, but became invisible under the snow higher up the ridge to Sron na Lairige. From the 1180m cairn, it was pretty much white-out with navigation to the 1184m cairn and across the next bealach entirely by compass bearing and pacing. I was glad to reach the rim of Coire Bhrochain, helpfully not corniced so it was safe to use the steep edge as a navigational handrail to the summit. The right hand side of my jacket and trousers were well frosted up with ice thanks to a snow shower, blowing from the north.

It had taken nearly three-and-a-half hours to reach the top – a bit longer than I’d bargained for with the tricky navigation – so I turned straight around to get as far down as possible before dark. More pacing and bearings got me back across the bealach and Sron na Lairige and onto the right descent ridge. Although less precision was required on the descent, it felt trickier with worse visibility going into the wind!

The cloud had risen a little over the afternoon, and I started getting views over Lochan Odhar, Gleann Eineach and the Lairig Ghru when I reached around 900m (still 400m below the summit of Breariach)! By that point I had found the visible path and my own footprints (not being re-filled by the wind at that level), which sped progress the rest of the way. There was some brightness in the sky over Speyside but not over the Cairngorm hills.

I found that a few other people had walked as far as the Lairig Ghru during the day, adding to my morning footprints. It was after sunset by the time I got back up to the Chalamain Gap, so I expected that I might need my torch for the last bit of my walk. But thanks to the clearing sky and reflective white ground, I was actually able to keep walking without headtorch all the way, reaching the car at 4:30pm, 40 minutes after sunset. I hadn’t had the dramatic corrie views I’d hoped for, but I’d certainly had a large dose of Type 2 Fun and done some very useful practice of my winter navigation skills!
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2840625

Looking back to Creag a’ Chalamain at dusk

I fancied something less taxing for my final walking day of the trip, so on Friday I did some more Graham bagging on the Hills of Cromdale, east of Grantown. My preferred route was from Strath Avon, to the east of the hills, but that meant a fairly long drive. This ended up taking nearly an hour as, although all the roads had been ploughed after more overnight snow, they had not yet been driven enough for the grit to have full effect, and it was safest just to roll along at 30mph. I parked by the phone box at Ballcorach, rather than risking getting stuck in the unploughed car park the other side of the river.

The ascent via Knock was on a decent track to start with. This was snow-covered but a set of fresh footprints led up and down – I concluded someone had taken their dog for a walk up and run down. Beyond the end of the vehicle track was undisturbed snow, which was pretty hard work to wade through all the way up to the minor top of Carn Eachie and from there along the ridge to the first Graham summit, Carn a’ Ghille Chearr. I was surprised to pass a group of reindeer! I did not know that part of the tame Cairngorm herd actually live here on the Glenlivet estate!

It was cold in the wind and the summit was just in the mist, so I didn’t hang about before heading back south, diverging from my footprints after a while to stay on the ridge line. It was very hard going across the bealach as the snow was deeper there, generally around a foot, and the ground underneath was unfrozen and boggy. I passed another large group of reindeer here, which were happy for me to take a fairly close-up photo.

Eventually I reached the tall memorial cairn on An Sgoran, where I was surprised to see a pair of walkers coming up from the Cromdale side. They were locals making a regular visit, but only as far as the cairn. We chatted a little as we had some food in the shelter of the cairn.

Then I continued, finding shallower and firmer snow generally, to the second Graham summit, Creagan a’ Chaise, which has an even larger memorial cairn. That just left a gentle descent east through more soft and deep snow to pick up another vehicle track down to Milton, and then a couple of kilometres along the lane back to the car. The roads had cleared fully of snow by that time, knocking 15 minutes off the journey time back to Aviemore.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2841544

My plan had been to break Saturday’s drive back to Kendal with a visit to Perth parkrun, but it was cancelled due to ice. With my knee a bit sore from the snowy walking anyway, I didn’t bother to go to Faskally Forest parkrun, which did go ahead near Pitlochry (I wasn’t so motivated by a repeat location!) and was in Kendal by lunchtime. I decided to spend the afternoon and night there and spend the time with my parents rather than rushing straight home. And despite the widespread amber weather warning for snow, I found the motorways clear on Sunday morning all the way to Hilton.

Overall, a pretty good trip, bagging five new Grahams and revisiting six Munros. That takes me past the half way point on the Grahams list: 118 down, 113 to go. I reached at least one summit every day, despite the usual mixture of wet, windy and snowy Scottish winter weather. Not much sunshine this year, but still a good selection of contrasting walks with views from some of the tops. My full photo album can be found here.

Christmas in Kendal (24th-27th December 2024)

I spent a few days with Mum and Dad in Kendal for Christmas. Ruth and Josh also joined us for Christmas Day and Boxing Day. The weather was pretty wet on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, so my only outing was to Penrith parkrun on Christmas morning with Josh.

On Boxing Day, we took a short drive to Wray Castle for a walk on the western shore of Windermere. The cloud was low but it was still a scenic stroll through the parkland and woods, passing a few boathouses and taking in the views across the lake.

Dropping down to the lake shore from Wray Castle

Dad, Mum, Josh and Ruth in the grounds of Wray Castle

On Friday, I walked with Mum and Dad from the house up to The Helm – again lacking in views due to mist, but it was good to get some fresh air.

On the 28th I headed north for my traditional New Year week in Scotland. More about that in the next post!

There are a few more photos on Google here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/1MVuDuYNYArL8DT6A

Fort William and Invermoriston (26th October – 2nd November 2024)

I always like to take a trip to the Highlands in the autumn – although the weather is often unsettled, the vibrant colours and low sunlight are often beautiful. This year I took a full week’s holiday and based myself in Fort William for four nights then by Loch Ness for three, with a focus on bagging a few Grahams.

I drove up as far as my parents’ house in Kendal on the Friday evening and got an early start from there on Saturday to head to Lanark Moor parkrun. The later 9:30 start in Scotland made this a fairly civilised choice despite the two hour drive. The course was an attractive and unusual one, starting with a loop of a small loch (with beautiful reflections) on flat tarmac, followed by a twisty and undulating loop of a mountain bike course through the woods (surprisingly suitable for road shoes, as the Run Director had advised me beforehand), with another lap of the loch to finish. I ran well but ended up with a time a little over 20 minutes, due to the hilly middle section and the distance being (by my reckoning) well over 5km!

I didn’t hang around long afterwards as I had plans to bag a Graham on my way north. I had picked Creag Mhor in the Trossachs near Balquhidder, as it was not far off my driving route and only required a circular walk of around 8km. I parked at the end of the Glen Buckie road in Ballimore and headed directly up the hill by the grassy southeastern slopes. From the ridge, there were good views over Loch Voil towards the Crianlarich Munros, as well as east towards Loch Earn and Ben Vorlich. I descended into the upper reaches of Fathan Glinne and followed tracks and paths back down the valley to the car. Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2791183

Looking towards Loch Earn and Ben Vorlich

Looking over Loch Voil towards the Crianlarich hills

Afternoon rain had been forecast but luckily did not arrive before I finished the walk. It was certainly very wet as I drove over Rannoch Moor and down Glen Coe though! Once in Fort William, I picked up some provisions at Morrison’s then headed to the Backpackers hostel, where I had a bed in a fairly spacious four-bed ensuite dormitory. Cooking, eating and route planning filled the rest of the evening.

Sunday was again forecast to start dry but become wet by lunchtime, so I got up promptly. I decided to bag a pair of Grahams on the north side of Loch Arkaig: Sgurr Choinnich and Meall Blair. My route started at the Coire Mhuic nature reserve, where rare butterflies can apparently be seen in the Spring. It did not look like many visitors ever walk the poorly-signed loop through the woods either side of the river, and there were no butterflies to be seen on a grey October morning! Nevertheless, the path gave easy access to a hydro track higher up, which led me easily into the head of Coire Mhuic.

Autumn colours and a little blue sky by Loch Arkaig

Once off the track, I found a series of helpful deer trods that making a rising traverse across the eastern slopes of Sgurr Choinnich, and I was soon at the foot of its well-defined northeast ridge. There were excellent views northeast over Loch Garry and west to the hills around Loch Cuaich (formerly Quoich).

I only paused briefly at the summit as the wind was cold and fairly strong. It was a welcome surprised that the cloud-base was well above the summit. A line of old fenceposts led west, about half way along the watershed towards my second peak, Meall Blair. The remainder of the broad ridge was unmarked and pathless, but the way was clear, over Meall Lochan nan Dubh Lochan then up rough slopes to the summit trig point. The cloud had dropped by this point, and the top 50m or so was in damp mist – worth putting on the waterproof jacket but not trousers.

I descended southeast then south to reach the Loch Arkaig road pretty easily near Rubha Cheanna Mhuir, enjoying good views both directions along the loch once I got off the plateau onto the steeper lower slopes. That just left a couple of kilometres along the almost traffic-free lane through the beautiful mixed woodland back to the car. Again I was pleased to finish in the dry – as it turned out, rain never really arrived that day. Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2792079

Looking over Loch Arkaig towards Beinn Bhan

The forecast for Monday was dry but with very low cloud, and that was pretty accurate! I decided it would be a good day to do two short walks up Grahams that would not be too fiddly to navigate in poor visibility. The first was Stob a’ Ghrianain (a.k.a. Druim Fada) on the south side of Glen Loy. Surprisingly, there’s a dedicated car parking area at the bottom of the forest track near Inverskilavulin, with a signposted route up into Coire an Lightuinn. I suspect extremely few people seek to climb this obscure hill, but perhaps its proximity to Fort William makes it an occasional bad-weather choice among Munro-baggers!

Once out of the trees, a small bridge gave an easy way across the burn and an ATV track led most of the way up the waterlogged east ridge. I must have entered the cloud at around 400m, but visibility was not too bad. Higher up, the ground got much rockier and there were a few crags around the top of Coire Odhar, with a large cairn above them. A short distance beyond that, the actual summit was marked only by a small pile of stones.

Misty glasses by the large cairn just below the summit of Stob a’ Ghrianain!

I continued around the adjacent lochan then descended beside a small waterfall and burn onto the rough southeast ridge. It was pretty slow going with a few peat groughs on the way to the minor top of Sron Liath, and it was only as I started to descend north back into the corrie that I broke back out of the cloud, still around 400m. That just left a short walk back along the marked forest path to the car. Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2792946

Back below the cloud with a view over Glen Loy

For my second walk of the day, I returned to the shore of Loch Arkaig, parking near Achnasaul to climb nearby Glas Bheinn. A good hydro track led well up beside the Allt Dubh, turning into a smaller stalkers’ track higher up. I had started in mist almost down to loch level, but broke out into a clear layer between clouds for much of the ascent. I doubled back up the steep northwestern slopes of the hill to reach the ridge half a kilometre north of the summit, which was sadly again in mist. I found the cloud had dropped significantly since I’d ascended, and I had to descend quite a long way on compass bearings, south then west, before eventually getting back into the clear and gaining very murky views along the loch for the final section down the track. Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2792950

As clear as it got on the way up Glas Bheinn

Tuesday’s forecast was again for low cloud so I was pleased to find there were a few sunny breaks when I got up. My targets for the day were a pair of Grahams in Ardgour, up the Callop glen near Glenfinnan. I parked by the bridge and set off briskly up the valley track with an extensive area of blue sky over the Corbett to the west, Sgurr Craobh a’ Chaorainn. Once beyond the forest I crossed easily over the burn and gained the well-defined north ridge of Meall nan Damh. It was clear much of the way up but did have a cap of fairly thick mist over both summits.

Brightness over Glas Bheinn but gloomier over Meall nan Damh

Sgorr Craobh a’ Chaorainn hogged the sunshine most of the day!

Continuing along the ridge, I did drop just below the cloud as I crossed the bealach to Glas Bheinn, and had fleeting views of Loch Eil through sunny breaks as I reascended. It was still mostly misty around the trig point but I was optimistic of getting views and found a sheltered spot for lunch. It did gradually get brighter and by the time I was ready to continue I could see more of Loch Eil and Callop with some very atmospheric light conditions.

Dramatic cloud and sunshine at the summit of Glas Bheinn

The north-western slopes gave an easy descent to pick up a disused (and quite boggy) hydro track back through the forest and regain the main Callop track. Sgurr Craobh a’ Chaorainn was still mostly in sunshine – apparently the gaps in the cloud were created by the terrain rather than passing in the wind! Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2793759

The cap of cloud never shifted off Meall nan Damh

I stayed at Fort William Backpackers for one more night but was moving on towards Loch Ness in the morning, so I bought more groceries and filled with petrol on my way back from the walk. Wednesday looked like the sunniest day of the week so I decided to do what looked like the most scenic of the three walks I had planned in the Invermoriston area. It was about an hour’s drive up the Great Glen to my start point at Alltsigh, actually just across the road from my hostel for the rest of the trip.

The first few kilometres of the walk were up hydro tracks through scattered trees. Once outside the deer fencing I struck off across the moor on an ATV track to gain the ridge of Meall Fuar-mhonaidh, sticking close to the left hand side for the best views along the cliffs to Loch nam Breac Dearga. The guidebook had said that this is quite a popular hill but the standard route is from the north so there were only faint traces of path on my route. The summit area did have several large cairns and well-worn paths between them though. There were excellent views along the full length of Loch Ness – I would guess this is the best vantage point over the loch, explaining its popularity (for a Graham!). I did not actually see any other walkers though.

Heading through the scattered trees above Alltsigh

As it was clear and bright, I included a few minor tops on the way to my second Graham, heading over Nighean a’ Mhill and Mac a’ Mhill to reach Glas-bheinn Bheag, with good views back along the crags and lochan. After some lunch, I continued along the broad ridge to Glas-bheinn Mhor, which was a particularly good viewpoint for many distant Munros, including the ones around Loch Cluanie, Glen Affric, Loch Mullardoch, Loch Monar and Glen Strathfarrar. The wind was chilly though, so I only paused for a few minutes before descending south over easy moorland to reach the end of the hydro track and follow it back to the car. Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2794641

Glas-bheinn Mhor over Loch nam Breac Dearga

Loch Ruighe an t-Seilich, with Meall Fuar-mhonaidh beyond

Looking towards the Cluanie, Affric and Mullardoch hills, from Glas-bheinn Mhor

The Lochside Hostel is a former SYHA hostel but now privately run. I’d probably have preferred it in its SYHA days as there was unwanted (by me) organised entertainment that took over the common room every evening, catering mainly for the 20-something international backpacker market rather than hillwalkers and families! Nevertheless, the four-bed dorm was comfortable and the kitchen well-equipped, and the location right on the shore of the loch was pretty.

Thursday was another day with a poor forecast that turned out not so bad. With wind and rain expected, I opted for my shortest walk option, up Burach. This is one of the hills only recently promoted to Graham status thanks to the change in minimum height from 2000ft to 600m. The guidebooks and most previous visitor reports described a rough ascent beside Allt na Criche but that wasn’t particularly appealing. I knew that the new high-level variant of the Great Glen Way would get me up from Invermoriston to near Loch a’ Mhuilinn, east of the summit, and it looked like one could easily ascend the ridge from there. This proved a good choice, as the Great Glen Way was a very well-made path with excellent views over Loch Ness, and I picked up a good deer trod all the way across the moor from the lochan to the foot of the ridge, only leaving about a kilometre of pathless ground to cross.

Although it was as windy as expected, it was dry and the summit just about clear to give views over Glen Moriston from the large cairn. I descended the same way, surprised to get back to the car with dry kit again, and had a quick stroll around the Invermoriston Falls before returning to the hostel. In the evening, I avoided the official Halloween party by sitting in the dormitory doing some brass band admin and solving a cryptic crossword! Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2795384

My final walking day was up two more Grahams on the north side of Glen Moriston. The weather was supposed to improve as the day went on, so I started as late as I thought I could while finishing in daylight. I parked on the verge at Bhlaraidh and marched up the massive new wind-farm roads past numerous turbines to reach almost 550m near the far end of Loch a’ Chrathaich. It wasn’t raining hard but the low cloud above about 450m was wet enough to need full waterproofs for the first time this trip. I traversed the ridge from Meall nan Oighreagan to Meall a’ Chrathaich, bagging three extra Simms as well as the Graham, then picked up the end of another branch of the wind farm track network.

The wind farm road had regular height markers

I had dropped back out of the cloud by the time I passed Loch Liath and stopped for a bite to eat before setting off across the rough moor via Carn na Caorach to the day’s second Graham, Carn Mhic an Tosich. The summit was in damp cloud again so I didn’t get any views. It did begin to clear out as I began the descent back to Loch Liath, with a layer of wispy cloud sitting on the ridge of Burach to the south. I was finally able to take off my waterproofs for the 6km walk back along the tracks to the car, arriving in hazy sunshine just before sunset. Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2796396

Brightening conditions over Loch Liath and the wind farm

I started Saturday with another tourist parkrun, at Torvean on the edge of Inverness. This was a fairly fast course, two and a half laps around a purpose-built compacted gravel path loop that was bent into a U-shape to feel more like five loops! Although there was nearly 50m of ascent, I ran well and equalled my best recent time of 18:49.

That just left the long drive back to Derby. I paused for a comfort break at Perth and lunch at Abington, and took a three-hour break for dinner with my parents in Kendal. That just left the final couple of hours to get home a bit before 10pm ready for a cross-country race the next morning!

In summary, the trip was a good break and a productive one for Graham-bagging (12 in total). Perhaps not a vintage autumn week to remember though, thanks to very grey weather most days. I had not been tempted to venture up larger hills any day and if I had it would generally have meant even cloudier summits. My full photo album can be viewed on Google Photos here.

Ladybower Loop (13th October 2024)

I made the most of a bright, if not actually sunny, day for a fairly long walk over some of the hills around Ladybower Reservoir. Starting around 9:30am at the Carr Lane car park near Thornhill, I headed down the valley a little to Bamford Village then climbed steeply up onto Bamford Edge, stopping regularly to take in the excellent views of Shatton Moor, Win Hill and Ladybower Reservoir.

Looking over the Hope Valley to Shatton Moor

The view from Bamford Edge to Win Hill, Kinder Scout, Bleaklow and Ladybower Reservoir

I continued on the heavily-trodden path down to Cutthroat Bridge then followed the bridleway west to Whinstone Lee Tor, then continued up Derwent Edge all the way to Back Tor, appreciating the early-autumn colours of the moorland and the forest around the reservoirs.

Looking up Ladybower Reservoir from Whinstone Lee Tor

I descended to the foot of Howden Dean then followed the shore of Derwent Reservoir south to the dam, pausing part-way on a bench for lunch. Once past Fairholmes, I re-ascended steeply to Lockerbrook then followed the grassy ridge southeast to the twin rocky summits of Crook Hill, another excellent vantage point. That just left the short descent to Ashopton and a few kilometres beside the road, over the Ladybower dam then along the Thornhill Trail back to the car.

Looking back up to Derwent Edge, from Crook Hill

Looking along the western branch of Ladybower towards Kinder Scout

A map of my route can be found here, and more photos here.

40th Birthday Weekend (27th-29th September 2024)

I thought it would be nice to mark my round-number birthday with a trip to the Lake District, and was really pleased that 19 of my friends from the band running club, Gentian Club and Old Duffers were able to join me. Our base for the weekend was YHA Borrowdale, but Kate and I travelled up as far as Ruth’s house on Thursday night to get an extra day on the hill.

On Friday morning, we drove up to Buttermere to meet up with Gentians Claire, Sheena and Vivienne for a walk along the High Stile ridge. Sunny spells and crystal-clear visibility made for a super day on the hill. We ascended fairly steeply to Red Pike via Bleaberry Tarn, pausing regularly to enjoy the views over Buttermere and Crummock Water. From the summit, we gained views the other direction to Ennerdale Water, Pillar, and the Isle of Man in the distance.

Looking along Buttermere to Fleetwith Pike

The rest of the walk was much less strenuous, with easy going on the undulating ridge over High Stile to High Crag, where we paused for a lunch break overlooking Ennerdale with fine views of Great Gable and Scafell Pike. We had plenty of time so opted to continue over Haystacks and descend by Warnscale Bottom then the north shore of Buttermere, getting back to the cars around 4:45pm – perfect for getting over Honister Pass to the hostel in time for first check-in at 5! I had a bar meal at the hostel for dinner and relaxed over a couple of drinks as the others gradually arrived between 5:15 and 11:30.
High Stile route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2769130

Vivienne, Sheena, Claire and Kate on Haystacks

We had a prompt start on Saturday as most of us were keen to go to parkrun, Keswick being the nearest and one that I’d been looking forward to trying. The course is a fairly flat out-and-back on the old railway line, now a cycle path, and had beautiful views of the River Greta below the numerous viaducts and of the surrounding hills, particularly Blencathra. The benefit of the slightly uphill first half was a flying second half and I was surprised to cover the final 2km in little over 7 minutes and achieve my best parkrun time since 2019 (1 second quicker than 2 weeks ago in Lichfield!). Thanks to my birthday, my age grade was also pleasingly boosted by around 0.5% to 72.54%. Several of the others also had good runs, with Jeff, Jo and Steve all beating their all-time PBs!

Once we’d caught our breath, we strolled down to the Museum Café for a quick coffee. Then we returned to the cars and drove the few miles east to Threlkeld, parking at the cricket club (except for the Farrows, who headed to Latrigg for a more child-friendly stroll). I had picked Blencathra as the destination for our walk, a 10km loop ascending via the Doddick Fell ridge and returning via Blease Fell.

The weather was still quite bright as we set out and traversed below the end of Hall’s Fell, but we could see drizzle blowing in over the valley by the time we started to ascend the steep nose of Doddick Fell. It got gradually damper as we climbed, and was pretty heavy for the final 250m or so of ascent! Ruth and Josh turned up at Threlkeld about an hour later (Ruth had had DofE commitments in the morning) and set off in pursuit, catching us shortly before we reached the summit. Despite the rain, mist and chilly wind, everyone managed to look happy for the summit photo and tuneful rendition of Happy Birthday (the advantage of hillwalking mostly with musicians!).

Heading up the Doddick Fell ridge (Heather, Heather, Will, Steve, Jake, Ashleigh, Helen and Rob)

The wet summit of Blencathra (Heather, Heather, Jeff, Helen, Will, Jane, Jake, Ruth, me, Rob, Claire, Sheena, Ashleigh, Kate and Steve. Photo by Josh.)

Soon after we set off walking again, it began to clear, with intermittent views appearing towards Skiddaw and Great Calva. By the time we were heading down the easy slopes of Blease Fell, the rain had pretty much stopped and we enjoyed some good views of Derwent Water, the Vale of Keswick, and St John’s in the Vale. As we descended the lane from the Blencathra Centre back to Threlkeld, we passed lots of participants in the Five Valleys Ultra race going the other way, generally walking but not looking especially tired considering they were 45km into their 55km race! We were back at the cars at around 4:30pm and at the hostel half an hour later for tea, hot showers and a pre-dinner drink.
Blencathra route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2769132

Based on a second-hand recommendation via Ruth, I had reserved us tables for dinner at the recently-opened Yew Tree pub in Seatoller. This was around a 20 minute walk up the lane from the youth hostel. Although only a small place, they were able to accommodate us comfortably on two tables of 10. Everyone enjoyed the excellent food and a few drinks after a busy day (and a couple of cold and wet hours) in the fresh air. We walked back by headtorch and chatted for a while longer in the bar before heading to bed.

The brass banders all declared themselves too tired to walk again on Sunday, and duly headed to the Pencil Museum in Keswick. Naturally, the walkers were full of energy and raring to turn out again. The Farrows headed to Fleetwith Pike while the others joined me for a walk from Seathwaite up Scafell Pike – the most scenic route, in my opinion.

It was an overcast day with barely a glimpse of the sun, but stayed dry and we had views almost all the time. We ascended via Stockley Bridge to Sty Head then followed the Corridor Route – with its dramatic views of Great Gable and Piers Gill – up to Lingmell Col, pausing on the way for first lunch. Claire had not bagged Lingmell so we took that short detour before joining the busy tourist path for the final short climb to Scafell Pike, where the mist was intermittently clearing to give fleeting views of Mickledore and into Eskdale.

Kate, Ruth, Claire, Sheena and Josh on Lingmell

It was a cold wind, so we didn’t delay long before continuing along the bouldery ridge to Broad Crag – again making the short detour to the summit despite its non-Wainwright status – and on to Great End, another new tick for Claire. We dropped down to Esk Hause and were glad to drop back out of the wind for second lunch at the head of Ruddy Gill. That just left an easy descent of the fairly gentle path beside Grains Gill back to reach Seathwaite around 4pm.
Scafell Pike route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2769133

The view from Broad Crag to Lingmell and Great Gable

Despite a short queue on the M6 near Lancaster in the aftermath of an earlier vehicle fire, I was able to get Kate to Derby station to catch her train back to Leicester soon after 8:30 and was home by 9pm.

All in all, a brilliant weekend with a selection of my best friends to start my fifth decade! Thanks to everyone for taking the trip and putting up with the poor weather on Blencathra. You can find my full photo album here.

Ethel completion on Ashway Moss (22nd September 2024)

More than a year after I ticked off my penultimate Ethel, I decided the time had come to take a trip to the far northwest of the Peak District and complete the list. The final hill was Ashway Moss, a flat-topped, moorland hill above Dove Stone Reservoir. With a reasonable forecast for the day, I advertised my intention to the Gentian Club WhatsApp group, and despite the short notice, Claire said she would like to join me for the walk. It’s quite a long drive up to Greenfield, so we shared a lift from Derby and back.

We arrived at the car park below the dam at Dove Stone Reservoir around 10am and found the cloud hanging low over the water, and quite a strong breeze, but no rain. We followed the track around the back of the reservoir then ascended steeply beyond Ashway Gap to reach the edge of the Black Hill plateau. A short walk north and east along the edges brought us to the much-photographed ‘Trinnacle’ rock, although it was shrouded in mist and did not offer any views. We took the short and straightforward scramble to the top anyway, then continued on a compass bearing across the plateau to what seemed like the highest point. The phone confirmed we had indeed reached the “summit” of Ashway Moss!

Me on the featureless summit of Ashway Moss!

Continuing west, we returned to the gritstone edge and paused by the memorial to 19th-century local MP, James Platt. He was killed on that spot by the accidental firing of one of his companions’ gun while out shooting. We followed the edges south for a few kilometres, pausing in a ruined (roofless) hut for a snack, then took a boggy path across the moor to Chew Reservoir, where the mist was so thick we could barely even see the water from the dam! The light drizzle had also been gradually strengthening, and we had put on our full waterproofs.

Claire above the crags near Charnel Clough

We then followed the southern rim of the Chew Brook clough, pausing for a late lunch in the lee of a rocky outcrop at Stable Stones, eventually reaching the trig point on Alphin Pike, another Ethel. Then it was an easy descent northwest to White Lee and along the track from there back to the car. This final section gave the best views of the day, over the valley and villages towards Oldham and Saddleworth.

In summary, although it was disappointing to be in the mist for most of the walk and to have rain for the second half, it was good finally to tick off that last Ethel and to catch up with Claire as we walked!
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2761443
Full photo album: https://photos.app.goo.gl/gxHpkB7yVqnL7Kru5

Marilyn bagging around Builth Wells (6th-8th September 2024)

My plan for this weekend had been to attend the Gentian Club trip to the Ogwen Valley in Snowdonia, but sadly that meet was cancelled due to a problem with the bunkhouse. Instead, I headed to mid-Wales for a long weekend of Marilyn bagging.

On Friday morning, it was about a two-and-a-half hour drive to my chosen start point near Llanfihangel-nant-Melan. I arrived around 11am. My first objective, the only Marilyn of the walk, was Gwaunceste Hill. I followed bridleways up onto the plateau, past a stone-row and tumulus, then traipsed through rough heather for the final climb to the summit trig point. The skies had been grey to start off, but were already brightening nicely.

To make a circular walk, I continued to a couple of nearby Humps. First up was Glascwm Hill, reached by an attractive grassy ridge then across the flanks of Little Hill. Then I headed east to the minor (but steep-sided) summit of Yr Allt. Four barky dogs greeted me intimidatingly at the farmyard to the west of the hill, and their owner came out to investigate. When I asked him if that was the line of the bridleway, he gave a disgruntled nod, got the dogs under control, and beckoned me through , then grumpily added “Don’t you have anywhere better to walk than through my b****y yard?”. I didn’t bother to explain that I’ve run out of better places and now have to climb obscure lumps and bumps in Powys to scratch my bagging itch! Anyway, Yr Allt was an attractive ridge with good views, and I had a late lunch on the summit.

The ridge towards Little Hill and Glascwm Hill

Looking back to Little Hill and Gwaunceste Hill, from Yr Allt

The final Hump of the day was Llanfihangel Hill, reached by the moorland ridge of Colva Hill, and covered in colourful heather and gorse. With not a tree in sight, I was surprised to encounter a squirrel near the summit! Descending to the west, I passed the very remote cottage at Pant-glas, which looked barely weathertight but surprisingly had three small wind turbines and a satellite dish! From there, it was only a short distance further to reach the well-worn byway climbing out of Cwm Ceste, and I followed that most of the way back to Llanfihangel.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2745179

Once back at the car, I drove the few miles to Builth Wells, pausing at the Co-op for provisions before heading to the Noyadd Farm campsite a little south of town. This proved a good choice with nobody else staying on the tent field, good flat grass, and a handy picnic bench and tap next to my pitch. I had a quiet evening and, once it was dark, an early night.

I started Saturday with a tourist run at Groe parkrun, beside the River Wye in Builth. By chance it was their 200th event, but that didn’t seem to attract any more participants than usual – probably for the best as, even with just 99 runners, it was a little congested lapping the back-markers on the three-lap course. I managed 3rd place in 19:28.

Afterwards, I drove the short distance to Llanelwedd to start my main walk of the day. I began by ascending to the north over the old hill fort of Caer Fawr. From there, I made my way north across the plateau of Carneddau, taking a short detour to the trig point before going to the 445m Marilyn summit. Significant parts of the hill were covered in thick bracken, and the paths that I followed were unpleasantly overgrown in places. I was glad that there were grassier lines available for the descent towards Cilberllan!

Descending through the bracken on Carneddau

After a couple of kilometres on roads, I followed a footpath climbing steeply up the northern slopes of Aberedw Hill, pausing for lunch when I reached the ridge. A bit of misty drizzle passed over as I continued up to the trig point at the Marilyn summit. I descended via the Rhiw Rhwstyn ridge which gave a quick and easy route back to Llanelwedd.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2745881

As it was only around 2:30pm, I decided to drive a few miles south for a bonus walk along the ridge of The Begwns, the highest point being another Marilyn. This broad ridge of bracken criss-crossed by grassy paths reminded me of parts of Dartmoor. The summit itself is within an incongruous small circular, wooded enclosure named ‘The Roundabout’. I picked a different set of grassy paths for the 3km return to the car. Sadly I didn’t get any views of the relatively-nearby Black Mountains as there was thin mist all the way.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2745883

I went to the campsite to shower and change then popped into Builth to get fish and chips for dinner – particularly tasty despite not being near the coast! Rain was forecast for the evening but arrived a bit later than expected, around 8:30pm. I sat in the car for a while then got another early night. My sleep was frequently interrupted by the heavy rain but at least there was no wind and everything stayed bone dry inside the tent.

The rain had eased by morning, and conveniently it was only spitting as I had my breakfast and packed up camp. The forecast for the day looked very poor but I set off for Llangammarch Wells anyway for a walk up Mynydd Epynt. Actually I managed to get all the way to the summit before the rain started to increase, so I had some good views across the Irfon valley on the ascent.

The summit gave views towards the Brecon Beacons, with some of those distinctive peaks clear of cloud. It was pretty wet, but again windless, as I walked southwest along the edge of the plateau on the waymarked Epynt Way to reach the mapped monument – unremarkable close-up – and not much better for the descent via Troed-y-rhiw to the car.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2746911

Distant views of Fan Gyhirych and the Black Mountains

Perhaps surprisingly, I had retained enough motivation to drive a short distance and set out for a short second walk of the morning, up the forested Marilyn, Pen y Garn-goch. On a brighter day, I’d have walked up from Llanwrted Wells, but this time I opted for the shortest option, zigzagging up forestry tracks from the east. A ride between the conifers gave easy access to the small summit clearing, which has a large ancient cairn and a trig point. I was glad I’d made the effort, as the rain had been very light throughout the walk.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2746914

Looking back across the Irfon valley to Mynydd Epynt

The drive home was very wet as far as Telford, then increasingly sunny. Back at home by 4pm, I was able to get the tent mostly dry in the garden, a load of laundry partly dry on the line, and the car washed, before dinner.

In summary, quite a productive three days of bagging, visiting six new Marilyns plus two Humps. These are very quiet, rolling hills with a colourful mixture of grass, heather, bracken and gorse, and not much exposed rock. The original plans in Snowdonia would have been rewarded with grander scenery and I think better weather though! My full photo album can be found here.

Balkan Three Peaks Challenge (17th-24th August 2024)

For the second of this year’s summer holidays, I decided to try something a little different: a guided group trip with Much Better Adventures, entitled the “Balkan Three Peaks Challenge”. The goal of the six-night tour was to climb the highest peaks of Albania (shared with North Macedonia), Kosovo and Montenegro.

The meeting point was in Tirana, Albania’s capital city, at lunchtime on the Sunday. I decided it would be more relaxing to get there the night before, so added onto my booking the optional extra of a hotel night on Saturday. My Ryanair flight from Stansted was scheduled at 13:15, so it didn’t require a particularly early start to drive down from Derby that morning. Although the airport processed us efficiently and we were waiting at the foot of the aircraft steps before the arriving passengers had even finished disembarking, our departure was delayed by around an hour due to staff shortages in European air traffic control. We eventually arrived in Tirana around 40 minutes late, at 17:50. It seemed unlikely I’d be able to catch the 6pm bus into the city centre but I rushed through passport control – with no queue – and ran to the bus stop to get there a minute or two before its slightly late departure – good to avoid an hour’s wait for the next bus or the expense of a taxi!

It was only a few minutes’ walk from the bus station to my accommodation at Hotel Vila 60, a pleasant place but hidden in rather a tatty courtyard. After checking in, I walked back into the city to grab some dinner at a takeaway restaurant and have a bit of a look around Skanderbeg Square in the twilight.

The mosque and clock tower in Skanderbeg Square

On Sunday morning I continued my exploration of the main city centre sights, most interestingly the ‘Pyramid of Tirana’ and the large ‘Tirana Park’ where it was actually a decent walk of several kilometres through the woods and around the lake.

I, and about half the group, met up with our guide Renis behind the opera house at 12:30 and we soon set off by minibus to the airport to collect the other half who had flown out that morning. There were 14 of us in total. From the airport, it was around a four-hour drive, initially along the toll motorway then on increasingly rough and twisty minor roads, to the small village of Radomirë. We picked up up our other guide Deni part-way. We could see Korab, our peak for the next day, from the hotel garden, and later on a beautiful sunset in the opposite direction.

We spent the evening over a vegetarian meal and getting to know each other. Deni briefed us that, due to morning thunderstorms, our only real chance of reaching the summit of Korab was to get a pre-dawn start around 4am, and try to walk quickly. Everyone was up for that so we got an early night. My sleep in a four-bed dormitory was somewhat disturbed by the heat and one of the group’s intermittent snoring!

We were up at 3:30am for a coffee, and set off with a packed breakfast by torchlight, walking in the dark for around the first hour. The route headed up through grassy pastures to a spring, where we paused for breakfast, then up rockier ground to the Korab Pass, on the border with North Macedonia. Deni set a purposeful pace (although it was comfortable for me) and discouraged long stops to maximise our chances of reaching the peak. The route was waymarked as being on the award-winning High Scardus Trail, recently set up through the work of Deni and others – something I might like to tackle in the future. A short walk north up the ridge from there brought us to the 2764m summit with a pyramidal marker and flag, and we were able to get a few photos before the cloud rolled in just seconds later!

Our descent was initially by the same route. We were accompanied some of the way by a large sheep guard-dog, finding its flock and eventually the shepherd on horseback further down. There was one fairly heavy shower of about 10 minutes, and one distant clap of thunder, but it was otherwise good weather. Towards the bottom, we varied the route a bit by dropping down to the right into a steep-sided river valley with some dramatic crags on the right.
Approximate route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2730655

The group on the descent (photo by Louise).
Front: Kevin, Calum, Jess, Sarah, Katie, Mike. Rear: Steve, me, Renis, Jussi, Deni, Becca, Claire and George.

Once back at the hotel, we had some lunch then set off on our minibus journey into Kosovo. Renis had managed to change the booking to bring the departure forward a few hours (following our very early start) which enabled us to take an extra stop for ice cream and a drink in the attractive Kosovar city of Prizren, which we learned is Deni’s hometown.

After that, we continued for about an hour to the city of Gjakova, where our home for the night was the luxurious Hotel Ҫarshia e Jupave. I shared a twin room with George. The main course at dinner was steak cooked at the table to personal taste on a super-hot stone slab – quite a spectacle!

The next day, the guides were unsure whether more storms around lunchtime would prevent us from reaching our next peak, Gjeravica. Three Land Rover Defenders picked us up in Gjakova and took us an hour or so up roads then a rough track to the small settlement at Gropa e Erenikut. The ascent followed paths across colourful blueberry-covered slopes up the Ereniku valley then traversed north onto rockier terrain below the peak.

We paused briefly for water and photos by Liqeni i Gjeravicës (Gjeravica Lake) then zigzagged up through the boulders on a fairly clear path to the saddle. Deni encouraged us to press on as the clouds were building fast. It was only a short further climb up to the summit, at 2656m the highest entirely in Kosovo (although it’s now known that one point on the North Macedonia border is a couple of metres higher). We took a few photos then headed back down to the saddle.

Looking over the two lakes towards the neighbouring peak, Gusan

The route then traversed left below a craggy peak to reach a higher saddle below the peak of Gusan, then zigzagged steeply down to another lake, Liqeni i Zemrës, where we paused for food. As clouds were continuing to build, Deni opted to take the lower of the two possible routes to our guest house for the night, descending a grassy valley to the top of the remote settlement at Junicka bacija, then traversing through the forest on good tracks.

The destination, Gacaferi Guest House, was different from advertised, the itinerary recently having been updated to stay at this lovely new hostel rather than a more basic shepherd’s hut previously used. That meant we unexpectedly had hot showers, power and wifi for the night! Also unexpectedly, we arrived before the rain, and were able to watch an impressive thunderstorm a little later from the shelter of the veranda instead!

The mother of the host family prepared a delicious spread for dinner, including meatballs and cow’s lung. Deni told us about her impressive past achievements, setting up an NGO to support women after the Kosovo War. I had my first really good night’s sleep of the trip, in a four-bed room with stunning views from the windows!
Approximate route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2730673

Dinner at Gacaferi Guest House.
Left to right: Deni, Renis, Jess, Becca, Katie, me, Claire, Louise, Mike, George, Kevin, Calum, Sarah, Steve, Jussi, and two other hostel guests not with our group.

Wednesday’s route followed the ‘Peaks of the Balkans’ trail. We ascended through forest and pastures to reach a small peak, Trekufiri, at the point where the borders of Kosovo, Albania and Montenegro meet. This was a very popular destination, the busiest place we would visit on this tour. The views into Montenegro were particularly good with a cloud inversion in the valleys.

Looking into Montenegro, with cloud inversion, from Trekufiri

We continued by descending to the collection of shepherd’s huts and guest houses at Dobërdoll, where we bought drinks and had a rest for a while. The remainder of the day’s walk roughly followed the Albania – Montenegro border, initially through forests on the Albanian side with impressive views down into the UNESCO-protected Gashi Gorge. We paused in a roofed sheepfold to wait for one heavy rainstorm to pass, then again for refreshments at a friendly mountain café just before reaching the Aljuci pass, again avoiding a heavy rain shower by doing so!

Looking down to Dobërdoll and the Gashi Gorge

A packhorse train ascending out of Dobërdoll

Then we crossed over to the Montenegrin side for an hour or so, and finally back into Albania for the final descent from the Vranica Pass to Guest House Vita in Ҫerem. Although the day had not included a major peak, it was the longest of the trip in terms of distance, at around 24km. We quickly showered then convened for dinner in the separate dining room, followed by sampling the local spirit, raki.
Approximate route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2730688

Views of Kolata on the descent to Ҫerem,

Thursday’s walk was shorter but covered the most technical terrain of the trip, on the limestone karst of the Kolata massif. From Ҫerem, we ascended through forest then pastures to reach another mountain café at a shepherd’s hut, where we purchased drinks chilling in a water trough and left the payment inside as the owners were not present. Shortly after continuing, we passed them descending to the hut having been foraging for blueberries.

It was not much further up to the Borit Pass, which Deni explained was a geological boundary between grassy / forest terrain to the north and exposed limestone karst to the south. We descended a short distance, back in Montenegro for this section, then turned left to climb up the Persllopit Pass, winding through limestone crags with a few easy scrambling steps. We passed a cave entrance from which there surprisingly emanated a very chilly breeze!

Eventually we reached the pass, and paused for lunch before continuing towards the peak on a well-marked path. The route led into a hanging valley – no glacier now but there was a terminal moraine at the front of the cirque and a small snow patch at the back. Then we made a rising traverse of the eastern slopes on some fairly exposed but technically easy ledges to reach grassier ground on the summit ridge. It was just a short final climb up to Zla Kolata, at 2535m the highest point in Montenegro. Neighbouring Kolata itself is slightly higher, but not on the border. It looked a lovely easy ridge walk to get there, but sadly it was not included on our tour.

Looking up into the hanging valley below Zla Kolata

Mist had been swirling around the summit throughout our ascent but had just about cleared by the time we arrived, and it continued to brighten while we were there, giving quite sunny views to the higher peaks to the west. There were also good views down the Persllopit Pass to the north, and into Valbonë to the south.

After a while, we set off back down to the Persllopit Pass by the same route, then descended the south side of the pass through more pastures and forest to our accommodation at Guest House Rosi in Kukaj, After dinner, we had our final expedition briefing around a bonfire in the yard. It was great that we had managed to bag all three of our target peaks, despite the fairly poor forecast the first two days, and done so without even having to walk in the rain (except for 10 minutes on day 1)! Chatting with Deni, we learned that he is in fact the chief of mountain rescue in Kosovo, as well as an international mountain guide – highly qualified indeed!
Approximate route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2730695

Friday’s itinerary was much more relaxing – most of the group were glad of that with tired legs and sore feet but I would happily have set off for another mountain day! We started with a short drive down into the main Valbonë valley in a 4×4 minibus, then switching to a regular minibus for the drive on asphalt to Fierze at the top end of Lake Koman. There we boarded a vehicle ferry for a two-hour cruise along the reservoir to the dam at Koman, admiring the fjord-like scenery from the top deck.

Another bus met us in Koman to take us to the celebrated Mrizi i Zanave agritourism restaurant. After a sweltering journey in outside temperatures of around 35°C, we were glad to arrive and enjoy a slap-up lunch in the air-conditioned restaurant. It was a fixed, taster-style menu, with a wide range of delicious items to sample, all made from locally-produced, seasonal ingredients. A great way to celebrate the conclusion of a wonderful few days in the mountains!

Finally we continued to Tirana, where we stayed in the comfortable Hotel Theatro. I had again been paired with George, but he and a couple of others had booked accommodation elsewhere, so I ended up with the room to myself. I went for another stroll around the city centre before meeting up with most of the group for a final meal together – although we were not that hungry after the very big lunch a few hours before!

That just left the journey back to Derby. On Saturday morning, a taxi took me and Becca to the airport at 7:30am as we were on the same Ryanair flight. We departed on time and the drive back to Derby also went well, getting me home at around 4:30pm.

In summary, it was an excellent week in some very scenic mountains. Travelling with Much Better Adventures definitely enabled me to visit places that I probably would not have had the confidence to visit alone, and the logistical arrangements of a guided tour enabled us to tackle linear routes that would have been very difficult to arrange independently. As someone in the habit of doing substantial mountain walks back-to-back on every holiday, the “Three Peaks Challenge” was not especially challenging, particularly at the steady pace of a large group, but the days were definitely substantial enough to keep me entertained. The food was tasty and quantities suited me (generous breakfasts and dinners, and lighter lunches supplemented by personal snacks), and the accommodation was more luxurious than expected, with comfortable single beds, hot showers, electricity and wifi available every night.

It was really interesting to spend time in a place that’s culturally so different from Western Europe – different cuisine and lots of Islamic influence to the art and music. The group got on well, and worked well together in good spirits to achieve our common goal. I suspect I will return to the Balkans in the future – perhaps self-guiding with the help of a tour company’s organisation. And I’m pretty sure I will go on another MBA trip – I’d better get browsing the catalogue to find suitably challenging ones!

My full photo album can be found on Google Photos here.

Gentian Day Trip: Great Longstone (11th August 2024)

Steve organised a day walk in the White Peak. Eight of us met by the cross in Great Longstone at 10:30am on a particularly warm and sunny morning.

The easy but scenic route took us up onto Longstone Edge, over Longstone Moor, down the ridge as far as Hassop Common, then back down to the Great Longstone. We enjoyed good conversation, extensive views, and fine displays of wild flowers, and paused for a drink at the White Lion before heading home.

You can see a few more photos here and a route map here.

Dolomites: Alta Via 4 (20th-28th July 2024)

This year, instead of my usual two week summer break, I opted for two separate one-week holidays, a month apart. The first was to the Dolomites, where I joined Ruth and Josh for an expedition along the Alta Via 4. Ruth and I had enjoyed the longer but less technical Alta Via 2 in 2019, and had fancied returning for one with more via ferrata and scrambling.

The easiest way for me to get to the start was to fly out to Innsbruck and get a lift with Ruth and Josh from there (they were driving out over a few days). And the easiest way back from the finish was to fly from Venice. Unfortunately Gatwick appeared to be the only airport offering suitable flights in both directions so I had to make the tedious drive down to London and half way around the M25. The traffic was alright on the Friday evening though, and I reached my hotel in Horley in a little over three hours.

After a poor night’s sleep in a very warm room, I was up early to catch the 5am shuttle bus to the airport, leaving my car in the hotel car park as that was much cheaper than the official airport car parks. After extensive disruption to global air travel the previous day due to the Crowdstrike IT problems, I was relieved that flights were generally running close to schedule, and we were in the air within half an hour of the timetabled departure, apparently delaying a few minutes to let some storms pass over Innsbruck! Sure enough, the ground was very wet on arrival but the sky was brightening.

With a very rapid transit through passport control at the small airport, I was soon walking the 2km into the city centre, where I checked out the location of my hostel, got some Euros from an ATM, and bought lunch supplies. Then I set off for an afternoon walk on the slopes of the Nordkette ridge, north of the city. It was a steep and unrelenting climb up past Gramartboden and through the forest and meadows to Höttinger Alm – very sweaty work in the hot and humid conditions! After a short lunch break, I continued on traversing paths west for a few kilometres, with good views over the city and airport, before a final steep descent.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2691174

I checked into the hostel – sharing a spacious four-person dormitory with two others – then returned to the supermarket to pick up dinner, breakfast and lunch supplies. I had a lazy evening, except for a pre-sunset stroll along the river, and another poor night’s sleep thanks to the high temperatures and a noisy Italian roommate getting up and re-packing for half an hour before departing at 4:30am!

Ruth and Josh were expecting to reach Innsbruck in the early-to-mid afternoon on Sunday, and it was quite a walk to any of the other surrounding mountains. I therefore opted for a morning exploring the city, taking in a few of the landmarks that Google suggested were the highlights: the Hofgarten park, the Goldenes Dachl and clock tower, the Bergisel ski jump, and the castle of Schloss Ambras. I followed the river back into the city centre, pausing for lunch on the way, then picked a suitably accessible but quiet street for my van pick-up.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2692019

Once on the road, it was only about an hour and a quarter to our campsite for the night, across the Italian border in St Lorenzen. Ruth and Josh had helpfully brought out my tent, Thermarest and sleeping bag. We used the very luxurious shower facilities and then walked into the village for dinner at a pizzeria on the main square. Then we got a fairly early night, and I slept much less badly this time!

The next morning we had breakfast, packed up camp, popped back into the village to buy lunch supplies for the first few days of walking, and then drove the half hour or so to San Candido (a.k.a Innichen, but I’ve decided to use the Italian names for this blog). Soon we were underway, following a gently-rising cycle path for a few kilometres up the valley then turning right on a quieter footpath up Val Campo di Dentro. The impressive pinnacles of Cime di Sesto and Rocca dei Baranci towered above the forest on either side.

Heading up the valley with Rocca dei Baranci above

The route steepened as we zigzagged up the head of the valley to Forcella di San Candido, passing below Monte Mattina and Punta dei Tre Scarperi. From the top, the spires of Torre di Tobin and Torre dei Scarperi dominated the view. Continuing a little further, the famous (and much celebrated on Instagram) Tre Cime di Lavaredo came into view ahead.

Ideally we would have finished the day’s walk at Rifugio Locatelli, before the Tre Cime, but it had been fully booked when we enquired, so we continued for another 5km, traversing around the right hand side of the Tre Cime to reach Rifugio Auronzo. The hut is located at the head of a road, packed out with day visitors, and consequently had more of a hotel feel, with a cafeteria rather than a cosy dining room. By evening though, all the day trippers had disappeared back into the valley, and it was a very peaceful and attractive place to spend the night, with dramatic views of the many peaks of Cadin de Misurina. We were lucky to have a six-bed dormitory to share between the three of us.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2695510

Tuesday’s weather looked the worst of the week, so it was fortunate that it was also our shortest planned walking day (thanks to having done half of the ideal stage the previous afternoon!). It was only around 5km to Rifugio Fonda Savio, but the route around the east side of Cadin de Misurina on the ‘Sentiero Bonacossa’ was interesting, following a series of exposed ledges. There were a couple of short via ferrata sections, but we decided they did not merit putting on harnesses and clipping on, especially as this would have involved faffing in the light rain.

Ruth and Josh on Le Cianpedele, with the Tre Cime in the background

It was only mid morning when we reached the attractively-located hut, nestled below Torre Wundt, and we didn’t have a great deal to do for the rest of the day! We knew there was a proper via ferrata just up the valley, so we went to take a look, although the forecast of showers wasn’t ideal for it. The peaks were in thick mist much of time, but the temporary breaks revealed a very exposed set of ladders straight up the cliff face. We had lunch in the dry below an overhanging cliff and watched a couple of other groups head across to the start of the via ferrata, go up a bit, then turn back. We unanimously agreed that we did not fancy attempting it in the damp conditions!

It had still filled a few hours though, and by the time we got back to the hut, we were able to check in. This time we were allocated bunks in the overflow accommodation in the attic, squeezed in just below the roof beams! The hut was more typical, in a remote spot and serviced only by a luggage lift, and provided us with a very tasty evening meal. I slept fairly well, despite the cramped berth!
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2695513

There were three possible variants of the AV4 that we could choose from on Wednesday. As we again did not have very far to go, we opted for the longest one, along ‘Sentiero Durissini’, This exposed path traversed across the back of a series of steep cirques, separated by steep cols crossed on gravelly zigzag paths. There were excellent views of the many surrounding rock spires, and the Tre Cime in the distance.

After a while, we reached the grassier ground of Ciadin de la Pere, but soon turned away from it over another rocky col – Forcella de la Neve – to reach a short via ferrata ascent up to Forcella de Misurina. This time we did put our gear on and clip on properly, although the exposure and technicality did not really merit it. Nevertheless, it was good to practice with the equipment before the trickier passages of the coming days.

Once over that pass, it was a short traverse to Rifugio Col di Varda, from where a 4×4 track led down to the village of Misurina. We sat by the lake eating a late lunch of fresh supplies from the small supermarket, watching the tourists in hired rowing boats and pedaloes, and lots of cyclists passing on very expensive road bikes,

Again, our preferred hut a few miles further on was unavailable, so we had a more luxurious night at the Grand Hotel, sharing a ‘triple room’ that turned out to be more of a family apartment with kitchen, living room, two bedrooms and two bathrooms! Later in the afternoon, we walked a lap of the lake, then had a fairly lacklustre evening meal in the hotel restaurant – we were not particularly surprised that the mountain huts offer tastier food than the 4-star hotel in the valley! I found the bed rather firm and didn’t sleep particularly well.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2695519

At guidebook pace, Thursday’s walk would take nearly 12 hours, so we were up and away early, armed with our packed breakfasts from the hotel reception! The first 90 minutes or so were up the road to Passo Tre Croci – not very inspiring walking but at least we were there before the traffic picked up. It was also good to be early on the path from the pass to Lago del Sorapis, another spot much prized by Instagrammers! The heavy erosion was testament to the high numbers of visitors who would follow later on. The emerald-blue waters below limestone cliffs were certainly a pretty destination worthy of the popularity.

After a short break, we continued past Rifugio Vandelli (where we would ideally have spent the previous night!) and up over some limestone pavements in Circo del Sorapis to reach the bottom of the Via Ferrata Vandelli, the longest and most challenging one of our trip. There were a few short ladders at the start, but the majority of the route was aided only by the cable itself, following a very exposed but fairly logical line, diagonally up the cliff face on a series of rising ledges. Part-way up, we overtook an Italian group (one of whom told us he lives in London) and were overtaken by a British pair. The views over the cirque were very impressive, with lots of folded strata, and the blue lake below, with Misurina and the Tre Cime still visible in the distance.

Heading across the limestone pavement towards the Via Ferrata Vandelli

We had lunch on the easy ground at the top of the via ferrata, then dropped down, via a couple more protected sections, to the small bivvy hut of Bivacco Comici. The final section of the day’s route made a gradual ascent of Val de San Vido up to Forcella Grande. The peak of Cima Bel Pra on the other side of the valley dominated the impressive views. Josh and Ruth seemed to be struggling a lot more than I was with the fairly warm and humid conditions (I didn’t think it was that bad!)

Circo del Sorapis, Monte Cristallo and Misurina

We knew that the hut was not far beyond the col, but were disappointed when we realised that there was a steep 400m descent to tackle – not what my sore knees wanted at the end of a ten-hour day! It was definitely a relief to reach Rifugio San Marco. It was also good to arrive soon after 4pm, with plenty of time to relax and rehydrate before dinner – another hearty and very tasty meal. We spent the rest of the evening sitting under a pergola just up from the hut, with stunning views of Monte Antelao and Monte Pelmo, chatting with a couple from Salt Lake City (who we had previously met at Rifugio Fonda Savio) and the Italian group who we’d overtaken on the via ferrata. I slept very well, for the first time this trip!
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2700129

The view of Monte Antelao from Rifugio San Marco

The final full day’s walking was the only one that both started and ended at our first choice of huts! It began with a gentle, zigzagging climb up to Forcella Piccola, where I took a group photo for a large group of youngsters, then a short descent to the huge Rifugio Galassi (where the big group had presumably stayed). From there, the path led gradually up over scree, slabs and a few small snow patches towards Forcella del Ghiacciaio (pass of the glaciers). Little remains of the glaciers on Monte Antelao though – just a few snow patches on the ‘Inferiore’ glacier on the north side.

The final section of the ascent to the pass was another proper via ferrata, again just a cable with no other aids, going directly up a huge slab. It was just about possible to walk up most sections without using hands, but I would certainly not have gone up there without the security of the cable! From the top, we saw an ibex a little further up the ridge, and enjoyed the view over what remains of the ‘Superiore’ glacier on the south side.

A short scramble led us down onto the moraine, where we decided to remove our via ferrata kit. That proved the wrong decision though, as we reached another protected section further down the valley where the path descended steeply across a cliff band. Surprisingly that section had not been marked in the usual way on the map! Below that, we passed a larger group of ibex, surprisingly happy for walkers to pass within a few metres of them. Once we were down into grassier terrain, we removed our via ferrata gear for the second time and paused for lunch.

On the moraine below the glacier on Monte Antelao

There remained only one more climb, just a couple of hundred metres up to Forcella Piria, where we paused for another snack break. Then a few kilometres of gentle descent led to our hut for the night, Rifugio Antelao, where we were greeted cheerily by the eccentric Italian guardians. We were first to arrive and so had first choice of beds in a 13-bed dormitory. We spent the rest of the afternoon chatting over drinks on the terrace.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2700131

Dinner was a much livelier affair than usual, with a group of around 15 local mountain bikers who had come up just for the evening, and bottles of red wine and mineral water being handed out liberally throughout for no additional charge! It was quite surprising that the place did quieten down completely by 10:30pm and I got another good night’s sleep.

The next morning, Saturday, we had only a downhill walk of 8km on forest tracks to reach the end of the Alta Via 4, in Pieve di Cadore. A few minutes further down the road was Tai di Cadore, from where I was catching a bus to Mestre and Ruth and Josh a bus back to their van in San Candido. We had time to enjoy panini for lunch together at a café before heading our separate ways.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2700133

A very smooth, modern and comfortable coach made for a pleasant two hour journey to Mestre, the mainland town across the bridge from Venice. I checked into my hostel then went for a walk around the town centre – pretty unremarkable – before buying my bus ticket to the airport for the next morning, cooking some dinner in the guest kitchen, and getting a fairly early night. The journey home on Sunday – bus to Marco Polo airport, flight to Gatwick, and drive back to Derby – all went to plan, and I was home by mid-afternoon with plenty of time to get my smelly laundry washed and dried before the return to work on Monday.

In summary, another excellent week in the dramatic limestone mountains of the Dolomites. It was really good to tackle a couple of proper via ferrata en route, something for which the area is much celebrated. The six-day expedition along the Alta Via 4 was a lot less physically strenuous than our 11-day expedition on the Alta Via 2 had been five years earlier, but no less impressive. I’m sure I’ll be back for more at some point!

You can find my full photo album on Google Photos here.

Alstonefield (22nd June 2024)

I started the day at Ashbourne Recreation Ground parkrun with my friends from Rolls-Royce Derby Band. As the weather was good, a few of us decided to take a lunchtime walk in the White Peak afterwards. Will, Jane, Hayley (with baby Oliver) and reconvened in one of the car parks in the village of Alstonefield.

Our route started off past the village church – we took a quick look inside as this is to be the venue for a band concert later in the year – then followed the footpath down to Milldale, where we bought tasty ice creams from the café.

Then we followed the River Dove upstream for a few miles, through Wolfscote Dale, enjoying the increasingly clear water, forest- and scree-covered slopes, and limestone crags.

At the bottom of Beresford Dale, we crossed the bridge and turned back to the south, heading up the steep grassy slopes (actually a little unpleasant with nettles and thistles towards the top!) of Narrowdale Hill.

Ascending Narrowdale Hill, with views towards Hartington

After a short lunch and nappy-changing break on the top, with extensive sunny views over much of the White Peak, we descended the way we’d come and followed more grassy footpaths the mile or so back to the village.

Jane and Hayley entertaining Oliver on the summit of Narrowdale Hill

You can view a few more photos here, and a map of our route here.

Cromford (16th June 2024)

My parents visited me in Derby for the weekend. Saturday was a local day, starting with Dad’s 150th parkrun at Rosliston. We took a local stroll through Hilton Valley Park in the afternoon before an early dinner, then Mum and Dad came to watch me play with Rolls-Royce Derby Band in Boylestone in the evening.

On Sunday there was more time for a proper outing. Dad had been saying for years that he’d like to visit Richard Arkwright’s much-celebrated Cromford Mill, the centrepiece of the Derwent Valley Mills World Heritage Site. We had booked ourselves onto a “costume tour”, led by characters in period costume. It was interesting to learn about the history of the mill and Arkwright’s fairly progressive treatment of his workers (for the time). I was surprised, though, to find that the main surviving mill building is just a shell, and that there was no working cotton-spinning machinery on site.

After the tour, we had lunch on a picnic bench by the River Derwent, overlooking Willersley Castle, which was commissioned by Arkwright but not completed before his death.

Then we took an afternoon walk, firstly up to the top of the adjacent ‘Scarthin Rock’, then through Cromford Village to reach the High Peak Trail. We descended the incline to High Peak Junction, and returned to Cromford along the canal towpath.

Dad and Mum in the woods by the High Peak Trail

You can find a few more photos here, and a map of our walking route here.

Hope Valley Round (2nd June 2024)

I often lack motivation to head to the Peak District, but the weather was so good today that it would have been wrong not to be out in the great outdoors. My knee injury continues to prevent me from running, so I thought I’d do a long-ish walk to try to maintain some semblance of fitness. My choice was an anticlockwise circuit of Outside (the Hathersage gear shop)’s ‘Hope Valley Round’, although I actually started at Leadmill Bridge rather than the shop.

I was underway at 9:25am after a fairly busy drive up via a fuel stop in Belper (where it’s always cheap!). The slopes below Bamford were nice and quiet, then I began to pass more people on the ascent of Win Hill. I don’t think I had previously taken the direct route all the way up the southeast ridge, as the upper section is not marked on the OS map.

Bamford Edge, from the slopes of Win Hill

After taking in the views for a moment, it was straight back down via Twitchill Farm to Hope village, followed by an equally direct ascent of Lose Hill via the path from Townhead. It was good to have the bulk of the day’s ascent done within two and a half hours.

The ridge to Mam Tor was predictably busy with tourists, and the summit even more so. I didn’t pause there, heading straight down to the south to find some quiet on the long, straight bridleways over Bradwell Moor.

I paused for a late lunch before the final descent into Bradwell village, giving me the energy for the final steep uphill pull to Bradwell Edge.

That just left an easy traverse of Shatton Moor to Offerton and Callow to get back to the car at Leadmill in pretty-much exactly six hours. That seemed alright when the Outside website said the average for a ‘fast walker’ was six and a half! The knee was generally alright – a bit clicky on some of the ups and a little uncomfortable on the steeper downs (but those were tame compared with Scotland, of course!).

Looking back up the Hope Valley from Shatton Lane

You can find more photos here, and a route map here.

Gentian Kintail Trip (17th-27th May 2024)

I decided to try a week-long trip with the Gentian Club for the first time, attending their Scottish Spring meet in Kintail. I gave Claire a lift and, to make full use of the weekends and Bank Holiday, we extended the trip slightly at each end, spending 10 days in the hills. We got an early finish from work on the Friday and met at my house for an afternoon/evening to drive as far as Crianlarich Youth Hostel. It was a good journey, with only minor delays at Stoke and Manchester, and a dinner stop at Southwaite Services.

The dormitory was very hot and I didn’t get a good night’s sleep, but the excitement of being back in the Highlands gave me energy the next morning anyway. The forecast suggested sunny spells so we decided to tackle a couple of nearby Munros before the drive up to Glen Shiel. We parked at Victoria Bridge and headed up Stob a’ Choire Odhair by the standard route above Allt Toaig. Humid and warm conditions made for rather sweaty work, but it wasn’t too hazy so we had pretty clear views in all directions, particularly towards Beinn Dorain and Ben Lui.

Looking over Loch Tulla towards Beinn Achaladair, Beinn an Dothaidh and Beinn Dorain

Claire on Stob a’ Choire Odhair, with a view of Stob Ghabhar

We dropped down to the bealach then reascended by the ‘Aonach Eagach’ to Stob Ghabhar, enjoying the views over the lochan and cliffs as we climbed. The summit again gave extensive views, including the Glen Coe hills and Ben Nevis in the distance, and Ben Cruachan and Ben Starav to the south. We descended by the southeast ridge and were back at the car by mid-afternoon.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2623719

The view towards Ben Cruachan and Ben Starav

A little over an hour’s driving took us to Morrison’s in Fort William, where we picked up food supplies for the week (lunches and snacks plus the ingredients for our allocated group meal courses), and refuelled the car. Then we completed the drive up to Morvich, arriving around 6pm. Our accommodation for the week was the National Trust for Scotland’s bunkhouse, which was pretty spacious as we only had 13 in a building that can sleep 20. Martin and I shared a four-bed room.

The next morning, several of the group were keen to tackle the classic Five Sisters walk to start the week. Ned and I co-led an east-to-west traverse, with five others electing to join us, We parked below the Bealach an Lapain and started the day with a steep and unrelenting 500m climb up to the ridge, on an obvious but rather eroded path. The ridge up to Sgurr nan Spainteach was complex, steep and narrow in places, and made for fairly slow going. Sadly mist obscured any summit views, although we did drop into the clear briefly at the bealach before the first Munro (and first Sister), Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe. The other two Munros, Sgurr na Carnach and Sgurr Fhuaran, were also in the clouds.

Claire and Vivienne on the ridge of Sgurr nan Spainteach

The cloud base progressively rose as the day continued though, and the fourth Sister, Sgurr nan Saighead (only a Munro Top) was just clearing as we reached it, giving excellent views along the rocky ridge to Beinn Bhuidhe. Some of the group were surprised and disappointed to discover that that was not the fifth Sister, and that we had to reascend one more time to reach that summit, Sgurr na Moraich. [On checking my records later, I was surprised to discover that I hadn’t actually been up the fifth Sister previously myself!] There were particularly good views into Glen Affric and along Loch Duich in the late-afternoon sunshine.

We descended steeply northwest, initially on easy grass but later on awkward deep heather, so we were all glad eventually to reach the stalkers’ path beside the Allt a’ Chruinn, which gave quicker progress for the final section down to the village. Mick popped out from the bunkhouse to pick up four passengers, while Sheena walked back and Ned and I waited by the café for Martin to return in the car to drop us back up the valley to pick up the two cars left there. Soon all the faffing was done and, after quick showers, we all enjoyed a late evening meal together.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2624862

Monday was dry and calm, so Ned and I decided to tackle the Forcan Ridge, the popular grade 2 scramble leading to The Saddle. Claire was wary having not tried a scramble of this grade before, but decided to go for it as well. I drove us up to the start point in my car. The cloud was on the tops as we set out, but rose quite quickly over the next hour or so, such that we never got very close to entering it. We followed the well-built stalkers’ path up onto the bealach with Biod an Fhithich, then the walkers’ path around the side of Meallan Odhar to reach the foot of the scramble.

Contouring below Meallan Odhar towards The Saddle

I led the way, with Claire second and Ned at the back to offer advice if required. We made good progress, negotiating the various trickier steps and exposed sections without significant pause, and enjoying the views across the corrie to Sgurr na Sgine on the left.

Looking across the corrie to Sgurr na Sgine

Once we had passed the summit of the Munro Top, Sgurr na Forcan, we knew that we would soon reach the crux section, a steep descent of around 20 metres. This felt quite familiar from my previous two visits so I was able to pick the best way down confidently, and help spot Claire and Ned onto the footholds. Then the final climb up to The Saddle gave easy but quite exposed and very enjoyable scrambling on the crest of the arete. We stopped for lunch at the top, enjoying views of Knoydart as well as the Glen Shiel hills, also spotting Ben Nevis and Creag Meagaidh in the distance.

Claire and Ned on the crest of the Forcan Ridge

A loose and eroded path led us easily down to the bealach, from where it was a straightforward walk back up to the shoulder of Sgurr na Sgine and along the ridge to its summit, our second Munro of the day. After a short pause, we retraced our steps for a bit then continued onto the ridge of Faochag. That just left a very steep descent of around 900m down its very steep north ridge to reach the car.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2627322

Looking back to the Forcan Ridge and The Saddle

Back at the bunkhouse, it was my turn to cook the main course for the meat-eaters, so I got straight to work preparing my Spaghetti Bolognese, which seemed to be enjoyed by all.

Tuesday had the best forecast of the week. I offered to take a group around the coast road to Arnisdale for a walk up Beinn Sgritheall, which offers superb views over the sea. Claire, Sheena and Mike opted to join me this time. The sky was completely cloudless as we parked by the shore of Loch Hourn and set off up the path to Bealach Arnasdail. The views steadily improved a we climbed, with more of the Knoydart hills coming into view.

A beautiful sunny morning by Loch Hourn at Arnisdale

After a snack stop at the bealach, we continued up the steep eastern slopes of Beinn Sgritheall, crossing a few scree and boulder sections to eventually reach the East Top, which gave fantastic views of Eigg and Rum. The continuation from there to the summit was mostly on easy grass, allowing us to give those views our full attention. The Cuillin hills on Skye gradually came into view too. We had a leisurely lunch break on the summit, enjoying the scene. Knoydart dominated the view across Loch Hourn, with Ben Nevis visible once again, and also the hills on Mull.

The Five Sisters, The Saddle, and the South Shiel Ridge

Looking past the crags of Beinn Sgritheall to the Cuillin Hills

Looking over the Sound of Sleat to Eigg, Rum and Skye

We followed the west ridge down to a lochan then dropped off south on a good zigzagging path down through the oak woodlands to the road. That just left a couple of kilometres back to the car. On the way back, we paused in Glenelg for ice creams, as we had reached the village shop one minute before closing time!
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2627326

Looking down to Loch Hourn, with Knoydart beyond

The weather was expected to deteriorate over the course of Wednesday, so we scheduled breakfast a little earlier than usual, and set off as promptly as possible afterwards. Ned, Vivienne, Sheena and Claire joined me for a walk directly from the hut up Beinn Fhada. We hoped that we would be able to get off the plateau and onto our descent before the rain arrived!

Ned and Vivienne were ready first and got a bit of a head start. The rest of us set off a few minutes later for the easy approach up the gentle gradient and good path of Gleann Choinneachain. After 4km or so, we reached the junction with the smaller stalkers’ path that leads up into Coire an Sgairne. We could see Ned and Vivienne ahead, but were not really gaining on them, and only actually caught them when they paused for a break high up in the hanging valley.

Claire and Sheena in Gleann Choinneachain

A short further climb up some zigzags brought us out onto the high plateau, with gentle slopes leading all the way up to the summit cairn and trig point, a fine vantage point at the head of Glen Affric. We had a quick lunch in the shelter and set off back down. Surprisingly, the conditions didn’t worsen as expected and we were happy to get all the way back to the bunkhouse in the dry. With hindsight, we would have had time to ascend by the more challenging route over Sgurr a’ Choire Ghairbh if we’d wanted, making a round walk of it.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2628120

After five Munro days, and with a poorer weather forecast, I felt the need to give my sore knee an easier day on Thursday. I opted for a solo ascent of the Graham, Beinn a’ Chuirn, north of the Glenelg pass. This was only about 4km each way, and about 300m climb from a car park just beyond the summit of the pass, albeit that distance mostly pathless, boggy and tussocky! With cloud at around 500m, I didn’t get a summit view, but at least I had much drier and calmer conditions than those who took a trip to Raasay to climb Dun Caan!
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2629713

I spent the early afternoon in the bunkhouse, then popped along to Plockton for a couple of hours to catch up with Amy – no chance to walk together this time sadly as my visit did not coincide with the school holidays. I returned to Morvich for dinner and the rest of the evening.

For the final day of the trip, most of the group fancied another big Munro day. Several went to tackle the Brothers ridge, while I led Claire, Ned and Vivienne on a linear traverse of the full South Shiel Ridge with its seven Munros. We dropped my car at the end point by the old battlefield and continued to the Cluanie Inn in Ned’s.

As expected, the cloud was well down on the tops at the start of the day, and the stalkers’ path up on to Druim Shionnach soon took us up into the mist. We didn’t get any distant views as we took the out-and-back detour along the narrow ridge to the easternmost Munro, Creag a’ Mhaim, nor as we continued west over Aonach Air Chrith and Maol Chinn-dearg. We did finally drop out of the cloud at the bealach before the fifth Munro, Sgurr an Doire Leathain, gaining some limited views down to Loch Quoich and Glen Shiel before climbing back up into the mist.

The next bealach gave views down to the lochan that gives Sgurr an Lochain its name, then the traverse path below Sgurr Beag (not a Munro) was entirely in the clear, offering some good views over Glen Quoich to Sgurr Thionail. That just left one more climb up to the final Munro, Creag nan Damh, where I felt like stretching the legs out and yomped ahead with a short wait at the summit to regroup with the others.

The descent of the northeast ridge was extremely steep and quite loose – not recommended compared with the easier route down from Bealach Duibh Leac that I’d used previously. There was also some light rain at this point, requiring full waterproofs. It was quite a relief to reach the stalkers’ path at the bottom of Am Fraoch-choire, even though it was faint and boggy, and follow that the rest of the way down to the car!
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2630678

After a quick trip back up to the Cluanie Inn to collect Ned’s car, we returned to the bunkhouse to freshen up before a group meal out at The Clachan in Dornie to celebrate the final night of the trip. We enjoyed generous portions of tasty food – a good choice of venue.

After breakfast on Saturday, we all chipped in with the tidying and cleaning before saying our goodbyes and setting off. Claire and I had decided to head to the Cairngorms for a couple of nights for some contrasting terrain and scenery, staying at Cairngorm Lodge Youth Hostel in Glen More. We drove across via Loch Ness and Inverness, taking a little over two hours, and parked at the hostel.

Claire fancied a gentler walk so we set off to walk around Loch Morlich then up to Ryvoan Bothy and back. The afternoon was increasingly sunny though, so by the time we reached the bothy the modest climb up to Meall a’ Bhuachaille was very appealing and we ended up climbing that Corbett. We sat for a while at the summit, on the sheltered side of the cairn, enjoying the views, then made the short descent back to Glen More for dinner in the hostel.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2631645

The Cairngorm plateau from Meall a’ Bhuachaille

I suggested we head up onto the Cairngorm plateau on Sunday. With the highest cloud level predicted first thing, we got a prompt start, walking from the ski centre by about 8:30am. We followed the well-built ‘Windy Ridge’ path up to the top station of the funicular (not currently operational), in dry conditions with some sunny moments over Coire Cas. A shower blew in as we approached the restaurant building so we put our waterproofs on in a sheltered corner before continuing up to the summit of Cairngorm – very chilly in the squally wind and with a bit of hail in the rain!

Early sunshine over the northern corries

The shower ended as we dropped back down the west side of the summit dome though, and we regained some views as we climbed around Coire an t-Sneachda to reach the main path to Ben Macdui. Cloud levels were generally dropping, as forecast, so we didn’t stay in the clear for long as we headed south across the plateau. A spell of light rain set in as we made the final ascent, and continued for an hour or so as we headed back across towards Lurcher’s Crag.

It did dry up again after that though, and it was dry and warm enough to pause for a fairly leisurely second lunch stop below Coire an Lochain. Thanks to the fresh breeze our waterproofs were well on the way to drying out by the time we were back at the car, and we did not need to put the hostel drying room to a very severe test (it dried our gloves pretty effectively though!).
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2632382

Neither of us needed to be home early on Bank Holiday Monday so we decided to do a final walk in the morning before the long drive. I picked two of the Munros west of the Drumochter Pass, as they involve easy and short ascents on reasonable paths. After a 40 minute drive from Glen More, we parked by Balsporran Cottages and set off in the dry.

Crossing the railway by Balsporran Cottages

Part-way up Geal-charn, a shower blew over, and we put our full waterproofs on for a while, and needed a compass bearing off the summit. The rain stopped as we began to descend though, and soon the cloud was lifting back up to give intermittent views down to Loch Ericht. By the time we reached the bealach, most of the summits were clear and we had good views across towards Ben Alder, Aonach Beag and the Ardverikie hills.

Looking across to A’ Mharconaich from part-way up the ridge of Geal-charn

Looking over Loch Ericht towards Ben Alder and Aonach Beag

Surprisingly, the path back up to A’ Mharconaich had been improved with pitched steps for some of the way, making it a very easy ascent, pausing for first lunch in a sheltered spot part way up. The sun had come out by the time we reached the ridge, so we paused for second lunch (not long after first lunch!) while enjoying the final views of the trip before making the gentle descent of the fairly boggy northeast ridge.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2634410

We were back on the road by about 2:30pm and had a good clear drive home, getting to my house soon after 9:30pm with a dinner stop at Killington Lake services.

In summary, an excellent 10-day trip to the Highlands, with lots of dry weather and good walking conditions, despite a few misty summits and some showers towards the end of the week. My tally of 20 Munros, 1 Corbett and 1 Graham was much more than I had expected from the trip, and was definitely energetic enough to make the trip feel good use of a week’s holiday. Just a shame that next year’s equivalent May trip to Torridon only has 10 places and sold out within hours!

My full photo album can be seen on Google Photos here.

White Peak with Ruth & Josh (4th-5th May 2024)

Four weeks after their wedding, the new Mr and Mrs Livesey came down to visit me in Derbyshire for the Saturday and Sunday of the May Day weekend. We met mid-morning on Saturday in Earl Sterndale for a walk over the distinctive “Dragon’s Back” hills. I defined a route that would save the summits for the second half, taking a more northerly (but less scenic) outward route from the village. Dowel Dale gave some good views of Chrome Hill though, and we crossed a very pretty arch bridge over the infant River Dove on the ancient byway between Leycote and Tenterhill.

We continued down the very quiet valley of Hollinsclough, pausing for lunch in a pretty spot overlooking Hollins Hill. Then we ascended the ridge of Hollins Hill before traversing the crests of the more popular Chrome Hill and Parkhouse Hill – all made possible by permissive paths – to return to Earl Sterndale. These hills have become much busier since the pandemic and it was sad to see how eroded the small path over Parkhouse is getting.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2612693

Chrome Hill and Parkhouse Hill, from Hollinsclough

Parkhouse Hill, from the descent of Chrome Hill

Looking back to Chrome Hill, from Parkhouse Hill

On the Sunday, the plan had been for Ruth and me to tackle the second of this year’s Peak Raid MapRun events. However, I had picked up a knee injury running the Shakespeare Half Marathon (in Stratford-upon-Avon) two weeks prior, and exacerbated it by running the first Peak Raid course at Monyash the following weekend, and did not feel able to run. I therefore kept Josh company on a walk, aiming to intercept Ruth a couple of times on her run.

The MapRun and our walk started in the village of Wetton. We started by heading to the clifftop above Thor’s Cave – which I don’t think I had visited before – for great views up and down the Manifold Valley. Then we made a brief visit to the cave itself (overcrowded!) before dropping down into the valley bottom.

The Manifold Valley, as seen from above Thor’s Cave

We headed up the Manifold Trail a bit, then ascended the unnamed valley on the north side of Wetton Hill, and climbed up steep grassy slopes to reach the westernmost summit a little before Ruth passed by (she had taken a longer route over Ecton Hill). We continued over the main summit then looped back towards Wetton to meet Ruth again on her way back in from the east.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2612698

We had lunch on a bench by the village green, then headed back to Hilton, from where Ruth and Josh soon set off back home.
There are a few more photos on Google, here.

Ruth & Josh’s Wedding (6th-7th April 2024)

Ruth and Josh were married in St Mark’s Church, Natland, followed by an afternoon reception in the village hall with music by Kendal Concert Band, and a smaller evening reception, with meal and ceilidh, at Melmerby Village Hall.

St Mark’s Church, early on wedding morning.

Peter’s clarinet solo, during the signing of the registers

The happy couple, heading out of the church

The next day, a few of the guests met up for a short walk up South Tynedale from Alston.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2617134

There are a few more photos on Google Photos here.

Southwest Highlands (28th March – 2nd April 2024)

As usual, I took a trip to the Highlands for the long Easter weekend, this year a solo trip staying in hostels. I travelled up as far as Mum and Dad’s house in Kendal on the Wednesday evening, and spent the night there. Then after breakfast on Thursday, I continued north to Lochgoilhead, where my first objective of the trip was the recently-promoted Graham, Cruach nam Miseag (one of the few that are below 2000ft but above 600m and thus meet the new Graham criteria).

I parked by the shore of Loch Goil at Corrow, and set off up good forest tracks, then paths up the valley to Lochan nan Cnaimh. Clouds shrouded Beinn Bheula and Beinn Lochain as a prolonged shower blew through, but the rain had stopped by the time I paused for lunch in the shelter of some crags.

Beinn Bheula from my lunch spot by Lochan nan Cnaimh

Doubling back on myself to continue up the ridge, it was a sharp climb up on rough grass, soon gaining views of the summit and down to Loch Goil. I passed over a couple of minor tops on the way to the blustery Graham summit, only pausing briefly there to take in the views before seeking the shelter of lower ground. At the start of the walk, I had been in two minds whether to descend directly north or back the way I’d come. It hadn’t looked too tricky to find a way through the forest, so I opted for the direct way, but somewhat regretted it as I did end up picking my way through the brashings and pits of a deforested slope for around 1km on the approach back to the forest track, failing to locate the timber extraction track that I’d seen from below. It was good to get back on easy ground for the final part of the descent.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2565414

I then drove half an hour or so to Inveraray Hostel for the night, where the warden informed me that I was the first guest of the year, that being their first day of opening and me the first arrival. I settled into my private twin room, then walked into town to buy groceries at Co-op, enjoying the sunshine over Loch Fyne on the way back. After cooking and eating dinner, I had a relaxing evening planning for the coming days.

Friday’s weather was supposed to improve as the day went on, so I didn’t rush to get out really early. My twin objectives were the Grahams on either side of Hell’s Glen, the other side of Loch Fyne, which are both easily accessible from the top of the 200m pass. First up was Cruach nam Mult. I followed the main track up Coire No, then a timber extraction track up through a deforested area to reach the open ground northwest of the hill. Then it was a simple climb up grass to the fairly unremarkable summit, the final 100m or so being in mist. It didn’t look like the cloud would break up imminently, so I headed straight back down the way I’d come, only getting fleeting views of Loch Fyne.

Back at the road, I crossed straight over and followed the zigzagging track up the opposite side, then ascended steeply beside the burn almost to the summit of Stob an Eas, the Graham summit. There were a few rocky steps to make the climb more interesting, and the weather was brightening nicely to give views towards both Loch Goil and Loch Fyne.

Loch Fyne from near the summit of Stob an Eas

It was pretty cold and windy at the summit, so I soon continued northeast along the ridge to the subsidiary top of Beinn an t-Seilich. This was a better viewpoint both up Glen Kinglas and towards the Arrochar Alps, Beinn an Lochain dominating the view to the east. I found a sheltered spot for a late lunch in the sunshine, then meandered south along the craggy crest, taking lots of photo stops as The Cobbler and Beinn Narnain came into view, and the views to Loch Goil gradually opened up to the south.

From there, it was an easy descent west down smooth grassy slopes to pick up my ascent track again at the edge of the forest below Stob an Eas.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2566337

It was about an hour’s drive to Oban, where I would stay for the next two nights. Arriving at 4pm, I had an hour to wait before check-in opened at the Backpackers Hostel, but was happy just to sit in the lounge and drink tea. Once I’d checked into the dormitory – which I was fortunate to have to myself that night – I strolled along to Tesco to pick up a couple of extra bits and pieces, then had another lazy evening.

Ganavan Sands parkrun had been on my to-do list for some time, so I was pleased to have created the opportunity to visit it on this trip. I arrived promptly and went for a warm-up jog along the first part of the course, amused by the sign warning of a steep ascent from the off. By 9:30am, 93 runners – their third highest turnout ever – had amassed. Two were very quick, well ahead of me within a few hundred metres and three minutes ahead by the end, but I managed to establish a bit of a gap between myself and fourth place. On a hilly course, I was happy to finish in just a touch over 20 minutes. The views of Mull and Morvern were excellent in the sunny spells.

After parkrun, I took a short drive north to park in Gleann Salach, the other side of Loch Etive, where my objectives were a horseshoe of three Grahams around the River Esragan. First up was Beinn Bhreac, a broad and grassy hill with an ATV track leading about half way, then rough and rather boggy grass. It had been dry so far, but I could see some dark clouds approaching as I continued to the 726m Graham summit, Mam Hael.

Looking towards Beinn Mheadhonach from part-way up Beinn Bhreac

Appropriately, a heavy hail storm began as I left the top, and I descended rapidly towards the saddle with Beinn Molurgainn as I could hear some thunder around. Thankfully, the thunder soon stopped and I could see brighter weather approaching, so I decided it was safe to continue back up. The hail had made the ground pretty white, but did turn to rain for a few minutes before petering out. Soon I was on the Graham summit and continuing southeast towards the minor top of Meall Dearg. The various cairns along its ridge proved to be excellent viewpoints over Loch Etive towards the higher, snowy peaks of Ben Starav and Ben Cruachan, and there were a few sunny spells.

Creach Bheinn (Corbett) from a hail-covered Beinn Molurgainn

Sunshine after the storm, looking towards Mull

Once I’d reached Bealach Carra, it was an easy scramble up the spur to the summit of Beinn Mheadhonach, the final Graham of the day. I overtook another walker, whose footprints I had seen in the hail earlier, on the way up, but didn’t pass closely enough to speak as he had chosen a less rocky line further right. The summit gave good views towards the sea and Mull.

I descended west then northwest down rough, grassy slopes to reach the confluence of the Eas a’ Chrinlet and Eas na Gearr, where the former could be crossed on stepping stones beside an ATV ford, and the latter had a very helpful bridge. Beyond the bridge, an obvious ATV track led quite steeply up onto the opposite hillside then traversed southwest back to my start point. The attractive rocky ground of the second and third Grahams had definitely made up for the boggy first hill and unpleasant hailstorm to give a good day overall!
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2567681

I had been told that I would be sharing the dormitory that night, so was surprised when nobody had turned up by the time I went to bed. Sadly, five others did arrive around midnight and disturb my sleep! Nevertheless, I was well rested by morning and decided to head to a couple of Munros, Beinn a’ Chochuill and Beinn Eunaich, which had looked good across Loch Etive the previous day. The forecast was also good, particularly for the morning, with light winds and sunshine.

Once I’d had breakfast and checked out of the hostel, I drove the half hour to Lochawe and parked by the B8077 junction, wrongly assuming that any places further along the lane were already taken. The first few kilometres were on a good hydro track up the valley, with improving views of the Ben Cruachan group to the left.

Looking up to Stob Diamh from the valley

Then it was a steep and unrelenting climb of nearly 500m up the SE ridge of Beinn a’ Chochuill, significantly aided by the expected Munro-baggers’ path. The climb was essentially snow-free, but a decent cornice remained on the north side of the ridge to make the view more dramatic. I enjoyed more stunning views of Ben Cruachan as I walked west to the summit of Beinn a’ Chochuill, as well as appreciating the row of snowy peaks between Ben Starav and Stob Ghabhar to the north.

Beinn Eunaich, from the ridge of Beinn a’ Chochuill

Turning back to the east, I followed the good ridge path to the second, higher Munro, Beinn Eunaich, pausing for lunch in a sheltered spot a little below the summit. As it was still quite early, I decided to continue northeast along the ridge to Meall Copagach and the Lairig Dhoireann, rather than following the masses (perhaps 15 other people that day) down the south ridge back into the valley. Although there was a lot of very steep snow on the east face of Beinn Eunaich, the descent on the ridge itself was easily negotiated without ice-axe, and the continuation was snow-free and enjoyable.

Ben Cruachan and Beinn a’ Chochuill, from Beinn Eunaich

Looking north towards Ben Starav and Stob Ghabhar

As I’d suspected, the mapped path down the valley was faint and intermittent, but it was at least well marked with cairns. Once down in Glen Strae, a few kilometres on the track and road brought me back to the car. I drove another half hour to reach Crianlarich SYHA for the night, where I was able to claim a bottom bunk in an otherwise full dorm.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2568631

My plan for my final day in Scotland had been to visit some of the Grahams above Luss, but the mountain forecasts agreed that the far south of the National Park would probably have low cloud in the morning. Instead, therefore, I decided to walk directly from the hostel up a couple of Munros, Beinn Tulaichean and Cruach Ardrain.

My ascent route followed forest tracks up Coire Ardrain, escaping the forest by Creag na h-Iolaire and climbing steeply from there to gain the ridge. The views of Ben More to the left and Cruach Ardrain to the right improved as I continued south to the rocky top of Stob Garbh, and the direct route to Cruach Ardrain looked pretty intimidating with a good covering of snow. Luckily I had thought of that and planned instead to contour across the corrie to the bealach with Beinn Tulaichean and climb that hill first, a route that worked well with some large, flat snowfields to cross. I saw one other walker with his dog near the summit, where I paused for a snack.

Turning back north, I followed the ridge up to Cruach Ardrain, finding some deep snow drifts near the top but nothing requiring use of the ice axe. There were good views of An Caisteal and its neighbours to the west, as well as down into Strathfillan. To return to Crianlarich, I descended the easy ridge via Meall Dhamh (where I paused for lunch) and Grey Height, passing two other solo walkers heading up. On reaching the edge of the forest, I headed northeast to pick up the end of a timber extraction track that I could see not far below, rather than going down the very boggy rides described in the guidebook.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2570513

Looking towards Beinn a’ Chroin and An Caisteal

I was back at my car and on the road around 1:30pm and embarked on the drive back to Kendal. Despite some slow traffic through the Trossachs and in Cumbria, I arrived with about 20 minutes to spare before dinner with Mum, Dad, Ruth and Josh. I stayed the night at Mum and Dad’s.

The next morning, Ruth, Mum and I went for a stroll up nearby Farleton Fell to get some fresh air before my final couple of hours’ drive home. It must be quite a few years since my previous visit to this limestone-covered hill, and it was good to refresh my acquaintance.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2570518

My full photo album can be viewed here. Overall, a pretty good Easter trip, with three totally dry days in Scotland and the other two only showery. I had ticked off six new Grahams and revisited four Munros. I now look forward to my next Scottish trip, to Glen Shiel in late May with the Gentian Club.

Gentian Seathwaite Trip (14th-17th March 2024)

The second Gentian Club trip of the year went to the High House bunkhouse in Seathwaite, right at the head of Borrowdale – a place very familiar to me after eight January visits with CUHWC between 2004 and 2012! Due to the great location and fairly long drive, I decided it was worth taking the Friday off work and getting an extra day in the hills. Claire travelled with me again, meeting at my house at 7pm on Thursday to head up to my sister’s house in Natland for the night.

On Friday, we had arranged to meet Sheena for a walk in the Newlands valley. Arriving at our start point near Little Town at the appointed time of 10am, we were surprised to find her not already there waiting, until I read her text message saying she’d had to return to Ambleside to pick up an item left behind at the hostel and would walk separately. So we got our boots and waterproofs on in the light drizzle and set off up the path beside Rigg Beck.

Ruth had suggested the stream might be tricky to cross after the previous day’s rain, but her concerns proved unfounded as it was easy to locate a spot where we could simply take a large stride across. Then came a steep, grassy ascent onto the ridge and up it to the windy and misty summit. The drizzle was easing though, at least, and we had some excellent views over the Newlands Valley on the way up.

Looking towards Catbells on the ascent of Ard Crags

As we continued towards Knott Rigg, the cloud lifted a little and we were rewarded with views down towards Rannerdale Knotts. Another steep, grassy slope led us down to Newlands Pass, where we paused for lunch in a relatively sheltered spot overlooking the Moss Force waterfall. Then we continued back up onto High Snockrigg – with good views of Crummock Water – and across the boggy shoulder to reach drier ground on Robinson (back in the mist).

Looking over Rannerdale Knotts to Crummock Water

We continued along Littledale Edge and back up to the summit of Hindscarth, then began our descent north, soon dropping back out of the cloud and gaining views down the valley. The small rocky steps on Scope End added some interest to the route, before the final section across fields to Gillbrow and back along the lane to the car.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2553331

Although the drizzle had returned intermittently, we were pleased to finish the day with our waterproofs only a little damp. I opted to take the scenic route to Seathwaite, over the Newlands and Honister passes, and we arrived shortly after opening time at 4pm. Most of the others were also there promptly and after a cup of tea and a hot shower, we soon settled down to the typical Gentian evening of conversation, dinner and drinks. I had accepted Vivienne’s offer of veggie chilli, and very tasty it was too!

Saturday looked much the best day of the weekend, especially in the morning, so we moved breakfast half an hour earlier than normal in order to get out promptly. I offered to lead a long-ish horseshoe walk from Stonethwaite around the Langstrath skyline, which would take in several hills I hadn’t been to for many years! Mike, Claire, and new member Eric opted to join me, while other groups headed to Scafell Pike and High Spy.

We parked just before the village and, after a short walk up the valley, struck off to the right to ascend beside Big Stanger Gill. I had spotted that the route was well-used on Strava, despite not being marked on the OS map at all, but was not expecting it to be an old and well-built stone-pitched path! The steep, wooded and mossy slopes were very attractive to pass through, and offered excellent views back down Borrowdale.

Looking down Borrowdale from the steep path beside Big Stanger Gill

Soon we were on the plateau of Rosthwaite Fell and managed to find our way through the mist to the top considered by Wainwright to be the summit, Bessyboot. There were glimpses of blue sky above so we remained hopeful that the mist would eventually lift off the hills as forecast. That didn’t happen during our traverse up the ridge to Glaramara though! We skirted around Rosthwaite Cam then west below Combe Door to reach the main path, and a short, straightforward scramble then led us up to the summit tors.

The cloud did begin to break as we continued south towards Allen Crags, revealing intermittent views of the distinctive outline of Great Gable. By the time we reached the summit of Allen Crags, pretty much all the hills had cleared, except for Scafell Pike.

Brighter conditions looking towards Great Gable

We continued up to Esk Hause, which gave excellent views down Eskdale. Mike opted to take the main path to Angle Tarn while Claire, Eric and I went via the summit of Esk Pike – another fine viewpoint over Bow Fell and Langdale, as well as down Langstrath. We met back up with Mike at the outflow of the tarn and paused near there for lunch.

Our next objective was Rossett Pike, quite a quiet hill despite being just off the main path up from Langdale. Bang on schedule, a few spots of light rain began to fall as we continued northeast down to Stake Pass, and you could see that the cloud was starting to drop onto the higher hills. We therefore opted to traverse across the grassy slopes of High Raise rather than going via its summit. Although it was a little rough and boggy in places, I am sure it was the quicker route route to Sergeant’s Crag, as well as keeping us below the cloud to enjoy the views over Langstrath.

Looking back up Langstrath from Sergeant’s Crag

From Sergeant’s Crag, it was only a very short distance down the ridge to our final Wainwright of the day, Eagle Crag, a fine vantage point over Borrowdale. We followed the obvious trodden path north and down some increasingly-awkward and exposed rock steps through a cliff band, almost deciding at one point to head back up and find an easier way down. [Checking the Wainwright guide later on revealed that there’s a better way, looping around the crags further west!]. We got down unscathed though, and the rest of the descent to Greenup Gill was steep but straightforward. That just left a short walk back down the valley to Stonethwaite.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2553334

Back at the bunkhouse, we hung up our damp waterproofs in the drying room and enjoyed a few cups of tea and a hot shower before dinner. Mike provided a deliciously rich venison casserole for the meat-eaters. Drinks and conversation around the fire continued until bed (but disappointingly the old pot-bellied coal burner has been replaced with a more standard – probably safer – multi-fuel stove that pumps out a lot less heat!).

Sunday started damp, but by the time we’d finished washing up after breakfast it looked like it was brightening up. I offered to lead a walk from the bunkhouse up to Base Brown, then around the Gillercomb skyline to Great Knotts, then down to Honister Pass and back along the valley. Vivienne, Sheena, Eric and Claire decided to join me this time.

Conditions were fairly pleasant as we made the steep ascent up the pitched path – as slippery as it always is – beside Sourmilk Gill. It began to rain as we continued up past the Hanging Stone to Base Brown though, and it was pretty wet walking upwind from there to Green Gable! We were relieved to turn north at that point and have the wind and rain on our backs for the continuation to Brandreth – needing a little compass work to be sure of taking the right line – and Grey Knotts.

The rain eased again as we dropped down the very wet path/stream to Honister, and we gained some views into Borrowdale. We had a short lunch break as we descended the Coast-to-Coast route, parallel with the road down to Seatoller, but didn’t delay long as it was starting to rain again. The final stretch along the lane to Seathwaite was very wet, and we were happy to get back to the bunkhouse and get changed into dry clothes before the journey home.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2553338

Claire and I were packed up and on the road soon after 2:30pm and had a good drive back down the M6 and A50 to my house, arriving soon after 6pm.

In conclusion, another excellent weekend in the hills, making good use of the days despite mixed weather. Claire bagged 15 new Wainwrights and I enjoyed returning to them too! More photos of the weekend are available here. I look forward to my next trip with the club, to Glen Shiel in May for some big Munro days (hopefully!)

CUHWC 35th Anniversary Trip (16th-18th February 2024)

I took a weekend trip to the Lake District to celebrate 35 years of Cambridge University Hillwalking Club, meeting up with around a hundred Old Duffers, current members and dufflings at Derwentwater Independent Hostel. To avoid the Friday evening traffic, but not wanting to miss a Thurday-night band rehearsal, I got an early start on the Friday morning to drive up to Mum and Dad’s house in Kendal and work there “from home” for the day. Then I popped across to Natland for an early dinner and got a lift up to Borrowdale with Ruth and Josh, spending a sociable evening in the hostel catching up with old friends as they gathered.

Saturday started with a full English breakfast prepared by the hostel caterers. After that, I chose to join Michael’s proposed walk from Seathwaite up Great Gable, which attracted a real multi-generational group including both current members and some of the oldest attending Duffers (but no children). Fifteen of us drove up the valley in four cars and parked at the end of the lane. We ascended together on the very greasy path beside Sour Milk Gill, then split into two smaller groups for the ascent of Base Brown. Some (including me) opted for the mild scramble up the north ridge while others took the easier route up the hanging valley and back up from the south. The summit was just about clear, with views down into Borrowdale but the surrounding higher hills not visible.

The direct route had been quicker, of course, so we actually met the others near the col with Green Gable. To mix up my company for the day, I switched groups and made a second visit to the summit of Base Brown before continuing up the ridge to Green Gable, then back down to Windy Gap – aptly named, as so often. Michael led five others directly down via Aaron Slack while I led two current club members up the steep rocky path to Great Gable, a few minutes behind the six others who had also gone that way.

It was pretty cold and damp in the cloud at the summit, so we didn’t linger long before checking the compass bearing and starting the descent to Sty Head. We could see the other half-group ahead, and finally caught up with them by the stretcher box. We descended together beside Styhead Gill, getting back to Seathwaite about 15 minutes after Michael’s part of the group, and a little while before a band of heavy rain was forecast to sweep in from the south.

Back at the hostel, we refreshed ourselves with a few cups of tea and hot showers, relaxing and chatting until dinner. The dress code had been advertised as “what you would wear for formal hall”, so I was pleased that lots of other Duffers had made the same decision as me and brought Black Tie anyway, in-keeping with previous Anniversary Dinners. The meal of soup, Cumberland sausage and crumble was simple but hearty, well accompanied by wine and a fun CUHWC-related quiz to tackle in our table-groups. Conversations continued long into the night and I eventually went to bed at around 2am.

On Sunday, I joined Ruth’s proposed walk around the Coledale horseshoe, along with Josh, Phil and John. We parked in Braithwaite and walked anticlockwise, starting with the long ascent to Grisedale Pike. The summit was just in the cloud, but we enjoyed views most of the way up, with the occasional sunny spell.

Looking over Coledale to Outerside, from Kinn

We continued along the easy ridge to Hopegill Head, then dropped down to Coledale Hause. From there, we reascended by the direct route – new to me – to Crag Hill and then around to Sail, pausing for lunch in a sheltered spot on the descent of the ugly zigzag path down its east ridge.

Phil, John, Josh and Ruth on the ridge to Hopegill Head

We then opted to take the direct path to Outerside, rather than going over Scar Crags and Causey Pike, and continued along the ridge from there to Barrow and back down to Braithwaite. A good walk with good company, with views most of the way, and drier weather than the previous day.

I travelled back to Natland with Ruth and Josh, paused for a coffee, then hit the road back to Derby, arriving just before 7pm for a fish and chip supper and an early night.

It was great to catch up with lots of old friends, many of whom I hadn’t seen for a few years, and to see that CUHWC continues to thrive. I look forward to the 40th Anniversary! There are a few more photos here and maps of my walking routes here (Great Gable) and here (Coledale).

Gentian Snowdonia Trip (19th-21st January 2024)

As ever, the first Gentian meet of the year was the ‘Welsh Winter’ weekend in Snowdonia. Also in-keeping with tradition, the Welsh winter looked like it would offer mainly extreme winds and heavy rain rather than snow, so as I headed west after work on Friday afternoon with Claire, I was doubtful whether we would manage much quality hillwalking! We arrived at the Rucksack Club’s ‘Beudy Mawr’ hut in Nant Peris soon after 7pm, settled in and cooked a quick dinner before an evening of conversation around the fire as the hut gradually warmed up!

Saturday’s forecast suggested the highest cloud levels and least rain would be found in the far northeast, so I offered to lead a walk from Abergwyngregyn up to Aber Falls and, weather permitting, Moel Wnion. Six others opted to join me, while the remaining four walked from the bunkhouse through the slate quarries to Deiniolen and Llanberis and back up the valley. It did seem brighter near the coast, and it was barely raining as we set off up the popular path to the impressive waterfall. I’m pretty sure I had not actually visited the falls before, and this was a good day to do so, after a wet night.

The group below Aber Falls (Petra, Sheena, Mike, Claire, Simon and Jayne)

After a few photographs, we continued west on the North Wales Path, passing the smaller falls, ‘Rhaedr-bach’, then made our way up the valley of Afon Gam – hard work into a strong headwind! Once we were near the bwlch we swung right to have the wind behind us on the final ascent up the grassy dome of Moel Wnion. The summit shelter gave reasonable views up to the snowy tops of Foel Fras, with glimpses of Yr Elen and Carnedd Dafydd further away. It did look decidedly murkier over the Glyders!

Heading up Moel Wnion, with snowy Foel Fras in the background (Jayne, Sheena, Simon, Claire, Mike and Petra)

Looking towards Yr Elen and Carnedd Dafydd

We descended the grassy slopes north then west to re-join the North Wales Path, with good views towards Anglesey and even a few patches of blue sky. Then it was just an easy walk back to the village, pausing for a late lunch in the relative shelter of the final zigzags.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2495534

A little blue sky over the coast as we descended to Abergwyngregyn

We were back at the hut by mid-afternoon to warm up with a few cups of tea. The other group had had a much wetter day in the Llanberis valley, so I felt it had been worth making the drive. The evening was spent pleasantly over dinner, drinks and conversation.

Sunday looked like it would be even wetter and, problematically, even windier, with 100mph gusts expected on the higher tops. Nobody was inclined to attempt a Snowdonian peak, so we scattered to various lower-lying places: a few to Llangollen for a short walk up Castell Dinas Bran (but I wasn’t that tempted having been there in similar circumstances last year), a couple to the Anglesey coast, and Claire and I to the Clwydian Range.

It was a bit brighter further east but still very windy. My chosen route went up the sheltered side of the hills, fairly directly from Cilcain up to the summit of Moel Famau with its distinctive Jubilee Tower. The wind was pretty ferocious at the summit!

We sheltered in an alcove of the tower to put on gloves and waterproof trousers, then set off north along the ridge. The gusts made for tortuous and unsteady walking but did ease a little as we dropped down and crossed Moel Dywyll. Then it was just a short walk back down to the village via the small reservoir at Garth. The rain had stopped again, so we had lunch outdoors in the churchyard before setting off back to Derby.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2495536

Overall, a disappointing weekend of weather, the winds not permitting any high peaks to be climbed, but it was still good to catch up with the other Gentians over walks and in the hut. There are a few more photos here. Looking forward to the next meet, to Borrowdale in March.