…continued from week 1, here!
Our deliberations of our week 2 itinerary had settled on a route heading southwards towards Bergen, then back to Oslo. That would keep us well away from the worst aftermath of Storm Hans! On leaving Gurskøya, our destination for the night was Nesjartun Camping, overlooking the lake of Hornindalsvatnet. That would put us in easy reach of our planned walk for the next day, on the western edge of the Ålfotbreen plateau.
The next morning, we caught the first ferry from Stårheim to Isane, then drove a few miles to our start point near Svelgen. The trail to Keipen started beside Sørdalsvatnet and headed up Sørdalen to the unserviced (and locked) DNT hut at Knekkevasshytte. There were good views across the valley to the crags of Vingekvarven and over Svelgen to the fjord. Beyond the hut, the trail got steeper for the climb up to the col near Såta, then entered a huge boulder-field for the traverse past the lake of Søre Hjelmevatnet – slow and awkward walking, with frequent pauses to try to spot the next red painted ‘T’ marking the route!
As Keipen got closer, the cliffs became very dramatic and imposing. All the mountains in this area are made up of huge slabby terraces separated by cliff bands – very distinctive! The path followed an easy ledge up to the lake at Vasskarvatna, then crossed more boulders and slabs before clambering up a gully to gain views of the higher lake of Rundevatnet.
Next came a long climb southwest up huge slabs to gain the final rocky ridge south to the summit of Keipen (1362m). We felt that 4 hours was actually quite quick for the 12km ascent of this very rocky and mostly pathless mountain! The weather was expected to worsen in the afternoon, so we were glad to have reached the top in dry and clear conditions and be able to enjoy the views in all directions. Some light rain began to fall as we started the descent, retracing the route all the way back to the car, but actually petered out after an hour or so such that we didn’t have to wear full waterproofs all the way down.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2357390
Then we had a few more hours of driving, generally southwards, to cross Sognefjord by the Lavik-Oppedal ferry then head to nearby Botnen Camping for the night. Our next three days were to be a hut-to-hut tour into the Stølsheimen wilderness, and the evening looked a very wet one, so we opted to stay indoors in a cabin on the campsite to have plenty of space to get our gear dried, sorted and repacked.
Monday began with a drive south, east and back north again on unexpectedly good roads up to the head of Modalen at the remote hamlet of Steinsland. Soon we were underway on our expedition, walking a short way back down the lane then climbing extremely steeply west beside the Kvernhuselva waterfalls – perhaps the steepest kilometre I’ve ever walked without scrambling! – into the hanging valley of Kvernhusbotnen.
There the going was boggier for a while, before reaching steeper, rocky ground for the climb up to Kvernhusbotnvatnet. Beyond there, a valley led up onto the plateau of Eldhusfjellet, a complex area of small lakes, rocky knolls and slabby terraces. At the far side of the plateau, we descended a little into the hidden valley of Vardadalen, where we paused for a late lunch by the DNT hut of Vardadalsbu.
Our route on to our destination for the night, Norddalshytten, was pretty much a straight line on the map, following a series of mostly-unnamed valleys between small lakes and rocky cols. The going was generally easier than the ascent from Steinsland, and we made fairly quick progress through the impressive rocky scenery. We passed one other pair of walkers heading in the opposite direction, the only people we would see away from the huts on the entire three-day expedition! Once we reached Trongedalen, we had a glimpse of the view down the steep-sided Norddalen back to Steinsland, before the final gentle climb up past a couple more lakes to the hut. After a dry walk thus far, rain arrived when were about 500m from our destination, enough to justify putting on waterproofs but not enough for those waterproofs to get very wet or need much drying on arrival!
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2357394
Smoke from the chimney indicated that others were already in residence. It turned out that it was a Norwegian couple who are the visiting wardens for a few of the huts in the area. Considering that role, it was very surprising that they did not give us a warmer welcome to the hut, apparently having hoped to have the place to themselves! Nevertheless, it was good that they had got the place very well heated with both wood-burning stoves going strong! We signed in and assigned ourselves beds in a four-bed room that remained our own as no others turned up that night. As we had at Skålabu a few nights earlier, we spent the evening cooking dinner, drinking tea, and playing Yahtzee, and got an early night!
The forecast had been damp for Tuesday so we were pleased to wake to dry and quite bright conditions. Consequently, we didn’t hang about in having our breakfast and getting packed up, and made a prompt start to our walk. Very light but constant drizzle did start around half an hour later, but was so light that we were drying out as quickly as we got wet and did not need waterproofs for several hours!
The first half of the day’s route took us generally east over the rocky plateau of Runderabben that we were pleased was generally not in mist, passing numerous small lakes and crossing some large snow patches. We then crossed over a second ridge to reach the much greener valley of Vøvringadalen. The underfoot conditions became very marshy as we approached the DNT hut at Solrenningen. By there, the rain had got a little heavier, so we were pleased to shelter under the eaves on the front terrace as we ate our lunch.
At the start of the day, we hadn’t fully decided whether to spend the night there or continue to the next hut, but since it was only midday and we’d hadn’t got wet, the longer option was an easy choice. The next few kilometres, up the valley and across a couple of rivers with convenient bridges, were extremely wet underfoot – boggier than anywhere I’ve been in Scotland! – and I was very surprised to reach the drier ground above Vøvringen without getting wet feet! This was definitely a good trip on which to be wearing new boots!
The afternoon’s walk took us over the undulating Urdanipa plateau, not as rocky as the morning’s walking and mostly on better-worn paths. Sadly, mist meant we didn’t get any long distance views, but the snow patches and small lakes sustained our interest. The final few kilometres brought us down the valley to the lake of Grøndalsvotni, then down again to reach the attractive Åsedalen hut for the night.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2357399
We arrived to find it unoccupied, and spent the next hour or so patiently persuading the fire to get started properly, the supply of firewood seeming a little damp. Eventually the stove was hot enough to dry out the fuel and keep itself burning well, and to dry out our damp gear on the surrounding rails and racks. A Norwegian couple, much more friendly and chatty than the previous night’s, arrived a little later and were grateful for our efforts with the fire! Again, the hut occupancy did not increase beyond four for the night and we were able to have a four-bed room to ourselves. Conditions brightened a bit over the evening to give good views over Hallsetvatnet.
A dry day had been forecast for Wednesday so we were disappointed to find drizzly conditions outside in the morning. We had a little over 20km to walk, but all of it gently downhill. The first half went down the rather boggy valleys of Stordalen and Berdalen to reach the head of Stølsvatnet. From there on, the path along the north shore of the lake was much better built, with duckboards and stone pitching to ease progress across the boggiest sections.
Then the final descent back to Steinsland was on gravel and tarmac hydro roads, making for very quick progress back to the car. It had been a strenuous but very enjoyable trip into the wilderness. Stølsheimen turned out to be a very quiet and beautiful mountain area, with huge rocky plateaux in the west and greener valleys in the east, all scattered with myriad lakes and snow patches. A worthy substitute for our abandoned plans in the National Parks further east!
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2357401
We spent the afternoon driving a few more hours south to the town of Odda, at the western edge of the Hardangervidda plateau. The first hour of the drive was on a very narrow and wiggly roads beside narrow fjords, making for very slow progress! It was something of a relief to reach the straights and tunnels of the E16 heading east to the dramatic Hardangerbrua suspension bridge, approached directly from the long Vallavik tunnels, complete with underground roundabout! Then it was interesting to see all the fruit farms on the final stretch down beside Sørfjorden.
After a supermarket stop to resupply, we headed to Trolltunga Camping for the night, a clue to our plans for the next day! The campsite was very busy, almost full in fact, but we found ourselves a reasonable gap for the tent. The hot showers were welcome after our three day expedition, even if they did cost 20 Krone (£1.50), double the going rate for Norwegian campsite showers!
We got a very early start on Thursday morning in order to secure a place in the Skjeggedal car park for the 12km walk to Trolltunga, the famous Troll’s Tongue rock, and hoping to be ahead of the crowds by the time we got there! Even at 6:30am, the car park was about 75% full, so we felt we’d timed it well. We set off briskly up the steep but well-built path on the west side of the Mågo river, easily overtaking the few others who’d gone that way rather than following the better-signposted gentle zigzags of the main access road to Mågelitopp. Then a very clear and well-walked path led us across the combe and up gentle slabs to the col at Trombeskar, from where we had very impressive views west over a cloud inversion to the glacial plateau of Folgefonna.
By that point, we felt like we had overtaken 99% of the day-walkers who’d started before us, including those who’d saved effort by taking the shuttle up to Mågelitopp. Most of the people we passed on the rest of the undulating walk across the plateau were backpackers who had camped up there and were beginning their descent. There were several excellent viewpoints over the Ringedalen valley, with the lake of Ringedalsvatnet hidden by a cloud inversion that gradually broke up as we continued east.
After about three hours of brisk walking, we reached the Trolltunga itself, and were relieved that it was a dramatic enough spot not to feel like an anticlimax, as could easily have been the case with a tourist honeypot! I suppose a tourist destination must be pretty good if thousands of people can be bothered to walk 12km with 1200m ascent to reach it, then another 12km back down! We took plenty of photos of the jauntily protruding rock and cliffs, and the lake far below, then took our turns to join the short queue for an individual photo on the end of the tongue, witnessing one marriage proposal as we waited!
We took the return walk to Skjeggedal at a more leisurely pace, pausing for snacks and lunch and to enjoy the views on the only properly sunny day of our whole holiday! All the way, there were lots of slow walkers heading in the opposite direction, some with a very long day ahead of them. At the end, we opted for the longer, gentler ascent down the road zigzags to save our tired knees. Our round trip took 7 hours, compared with the 10-12 hours suggested on the website for typical visitors. It had been by far the best-made trail of our trip – very easy walking compared with the preceding four days on Keipen and in Stølsheimen!
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2358081
We had a quiet afternoon in the campsite, with a stroll by the lake to stretch the legs later on.
Our plan for Friday was to head most of the way back to Oslo, with a stop for a short walk on the southern edge of the Hardangervidda plateau. Soon after leaving Odda, we paused by the dramatic twin waterfalls of Låtefossen for a few photos.
An hour or so later, we parked near the mountain lodge of Haukeliseter Fjellstue, around 1000m above sea level. This turned out to be a popular starting point for short walks. Our objective was the nearby rocky ridge of Kista, a spur of the larger and more distant peak of Kistenuten. The walk up was short and easy, only about 4km with 400m of ascent, but gave really good views over Ståvatn to the higher peaks of Haukelifjell.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/2360582
After a similarly easy descent, we paused for lunch before commencing the long-ish drive east to our campsite at Hokksund. This was the first place we’d been where the extent of the flooding was evident. The campsite occupied an island in the Drammenselva river, still very much in spate 10 days after the storm and with a lot of the surrounding ground still flooded! Most of the campsite seemed to have been high enough to have stayed dry though, and it proved a peaceful place to spend the night, with luxurious facilities at a bargain price (for Norway!).
We spent Saturday having a quick explore of Oslo, starting with a visit to Ekebergsletta parkrun, one of three in the city, but the obvious choice thanks to having fewest laps on its course and adjacent free parking! I was pleased to see that the sixty-or-so runners were mostly locals, with perhaps a dozen international tourists from England, Germany, Italy and Australia. After two weeks of mountain walking, I was pleased that my legs were fresh enough to cover 5km in under 19:30, although the course was a little long, giving an official time of 19:45 to the finish line. Ruth arrived about three minutes later.
Once we’d caught our breath and got changed, we walked down through the Ekebergparken and along the Oslofjorden seafront to the city centre. The modern architecture of the Munch museum and opera house were the main attractions. We continued to the cathedral, but could not look inside due to an ongoing organ recital, then paused in the DNT (Norwegian Trekking Association) store. Thanks to the late change of plans, we had had to manage with only digital maps for our walks, but I was keen to acquire paper maps as a souvenir at least. It was a bonus that DNT Membership got me a discount too!
We got some lunch then walked back up to the car, finding a better route through the Ekeberg sculpture trail this time. It was about a half hour drive north to the airport where we were able to check into our hotel and drop off our luggage at 3pm then return the car to the rental depot before the 4pm deadline. As it was a bright afternoon and we had no bags, we opted to walk the 3km back to the hotel – all on wide cycle- and footpaths – rather than paying for the shuttle bus.
After a short but reasonable night’s sleep, it was a final early start on Sunday morning to grab a quick continental breakfast in the hotel restaurant before heading back to the airport by bus. It’s quite a quiet airport so we had a quick passage through security and the flight home ran to schedule, arriving in Manchester just before 9am. I had a frustratingly long wait for the car park shuttle bus but was still home by 11am, with plenty of time to get myself sorted and ready for the return to work.
All in all, a very enjoyable trip to an exciting new destination. Despite Storm Hans causing us to abandon the most exciting of our mountain plans for the trip, the substitute destinations on our tour had been excellent and the generally damp weather had not spoilt our fun. I look forward to returning to make those planned visits to Snøhetta, Rondane and Jotunheimen another year, and indeed to go to the far north another time! The DNT huts are a fantastic way to explore the wilderness cheaply and comfortably, without having to carry camping or cooking equipment, and it will be great to visit more of them.
My full photo album can be seen here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/gDHVZtRNd8XJLJxA7