October’s weekend trip with the Gentian Club, which looks set to be my last club meet of 2025, was to the Howgill Fells, in the north-western corner of the Yorkshire Dales National Park but actually located in Cumbria. I’ve walked there sporadically over the years, first with CUHWC and more recently to bag the various Nuttalls and Marilyns, but it’s not an area where I’ve spent a lot of time, so I was looking forward to the visit, As I still have a few days of 2025 leave to use up, I again extended the weekend by a day, travelling up to Mum and Dad’s house in Kendal on Thursday evening with Claire.
On the Friday, we chose to walk on the Barbon Fells. Sheena had spent the night at Ingleton Youth Hostel and met us at 9am in Barbon village. The day started grey, misty and damp, but the forecast suggested it might improve by afternoon, so we walked clockwise, starting with the low-level section up the Lune Valley. The footpaths through the fields via Middleton then along the riverside to Fellside were little-used and indistinct, requiring careful navigation, and led us through plenty of long, wet grass that meant we all had damp feet before we even started ascending any hills!


A much better track led from there up over Brown Knott and Long Bank, soon entering the damp cloud, to reach the main ridge, where the path stays quite close to a dry stone wall most of the way. We met one other walker, bagging the Nuttall, at the summit of Calf Top. He set off down after a short chat and we paused for lunch by the trig point, which was intriguingly decorated with 5-, 6- and 7-point stars.

The continuation of the ridge across the broad saddle to Castle Knott gave the boggiest walking of the day, before we picked up better paths again for the descent via Eskholme Pike – finally back out of the cloud – and Barbon Park to the car.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/3133196

It was only about a 30 minute drive to our very comfortable weekend accommodation in a bunk barn at Murthwaite, a few miles up the valley from Sedbergh. After we’d unloaded, had a cup of tea and settled in, I headed out for a short second walk to bag the nearby Hump, Harter Fell. With the weather finally starting to brighten, Claire and Sheena decided to join me again! We ascended steeply and directly up the south-western slopes to reach the ridge for an easy final kilometre to the summit. Thick grey cloud hung not far above us, but we could see that it had a distinct boundary over the Eden Valley and that parts of the North Pennine ridge beyond were in full sunshine! The other direction, we had good views over Adamthwaite and Wandale Hill to the higher Howgill fells.

We dropped down the easy north-west ridge then followed the lane and bridleway back to Murthwaite. Most of the others had arrived by the time we got back to the hut, and the final few came not much later. After a quick pasta dinner we spent the evening chatting and planning the weekend’s walks, as usual.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/3133199
Saturday started with mist hanging fairly low over the hills. I proposed a walk over the highest of the Howgill Fells, starting a few miles down the road at the Cross Keys pub, while others chose slightly shorter routes directly from the hut. Vivienne, Sheena and Claire opted to join me. We started off by ascending towards and past the impressive waterfall of Cautley Spout, then continued into the cloud along the top of Cautley Crag to reach Great Dummacks, where we could tell we were not far below the top of the cloud. Pleasingly, the slight further rise to Calders was just enough to break out of the cloud and gain dramatic views over Arant Haw and the Lune Valley.





Our high point for the day, The Calf, was not quite clear, but before we’d descended far towards Hare Shaw and Bowderdale Head, we were back below the cloud and the skies were getting increasingly blue. A steep climb up sheep paths brought us to the saddle just south of Yarlside, where we happened to meet Mick’s group completing the ascent from the other side. After a short chat, they continued up, while we paused for first lunch with a lovely view east over Wandale Hill.

We continued over Yarlside, then dropped steeply down its north-eastern slopes to follow the ridge over Kensgriff and Randygill Top, then more gently along to the trig point on Green Bell, one of just nine Simms outside Scotland that I had not previously visited. We chatted with a group of four from Yorkshire and Cheshire for a few minutes, then had second lunch. Two others came and went as we ate, and a farmer passed nearby on his quadbike – unexpectedly the busiest spot of the day!


The grassy slopes south of Spengill Head gave an easy descent, followed by a slightly boggier re-ascent to Wandale Hill, another new Hump for me to bag, and an excellent viewpoint over the Yorkshire Dales and Howgills. That just left a descent of the ridge to Narthwaite and a short walk along the bridleway back to the Cross Keys. A lovely day out on the hills, mostly sunny after the initial misty ascent.
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/3133893


Back at the hut, we refreshed with tea and hot showers, and caught up with the other groups. Later we enjoyed an evening meal of soup brought by Jane, chicken filo pie cooked by Claire, and (shop-bought) apple pie from me.
Sunday started sunny, with a cloud inversion visible down the valley over Sedbergh. Sheena and Claire once again opted to join my proposed route, a circuit of Wild Boar Fell and Swarth Fell. I had visited those hills only once before, by chance also in autumn inversion conditions, with Ruth in 2011! We parked on the Fell End road and ascended easily through the pretty limestone pavements of Stennerskeugh Clouds,


Above there, the going was more tussocky as we crossed over Hushy Gill to gain the Pennine Bridleway where it crosses Scandal Beck. A good track led up to the ridge at the quirkily-named High Dolphinsty. There we gained spectacular views over the Howgill Fells to the Lake District, over the Eden Valley (with cloud inversion) to the North Pennines, over Mallerstang Common to Mallerstang Edge, and along the eastern crags of Wild Boar Fell. Most of the major peaks of the Lakes, Dales and North Pennines were clearly visible. Climbing a little higher, a prominent buttress on High Nab made a great foreground for photos!



Further on, we reached a cluster of tall cairns at the East Top, and paused there for first lunch, enjoying the views of Mallerstang and Garsdale Head. We crossed the flat summit plateau to the trig point at the main summit, which was the day’s best vantage point for the inversion in the Sedbergh Valley, with the Howgill Fells beyond. Continuing, an easy grassy path led across the broad saddle to Swarth Fell, again with crags on its eastern side. At the slightly lower summit of Swarth Fell Pike, we left the ridge to drop down rough, tussocky grass over Nettle Brow on intermittent quadbike tracks to the little-used footpath up Grisedale. An old lime kiln was a suitable spot for second lunch.


The next few kilometres were quite rough going on a narrow path through the boggy tussock grass. Clearly not many people complete the long-distance trail of ‘A Pennine Journey’! We paused to look around the smoothed limestone gully of the dry upper reaches of Grisedale Beck, and to look up Rawthey Gill onto adjacent Baugh Fell. Descending gradually into Uldale, we eventually escaped onto a better track at Whin Stone Bridge. From there, it was easy walking along the lanes over Black Moss and Fell End to reach the cars at 4pm. A really memorable day out above the clouds!
Route map: https://www.plotaroute.com/route/3134899


Claire and I called in to Natland for a quick chat with Ruth (and baby Chloe) on our way by – my last visit before they move house next week! Roadwords near Carnforth had caused queues on the M6 so we followed Ruth’s recommended diversion through Milnthorpe and Nether Kellet to avoid that without much delay, and were back at my house just before 8pm.
All in all, a fantastic weekend catching up with friends in the sunshine and above the clouds on these quiet but characterful hills. You can find more of my photos on Google Photos here.





































































