This year’s main summer holiday was to the Dolomites in northern Italy, a region of the Alps that I had not visited before and very distinctive in terms of its geology and character. Rather than drive down and set up a base camp for day walks as has become our norm, this year Ruth and I opted to tackle a hut-to-hut tour, the ‘Alta Via 2′. This route of around 160km runs through the western ranges of the Dolomites, starting in Brixen not far from the Austrian border and finishing in Feltre much nearer Venice. We opted for an eleven-day itinerary that was a little more ambitious than the book suggestion but still in practice gave us lots of easy days of only around five hours’ walking at Pettit pace.
With no need for a car to get around during the trip, we instead flew from Manchester to Venice, taking only cabin bags to force ourselves to keep the bags light and compact and not take any unnecessary extras! An extremely early start in Kendal to catch the 6am Sunday flight proved unnecessary thanks to a departure delayed by around 90 minutes. Our onward journey to Brixen then involved a short bus journey to Mestre station and then a direct train (bound for Innsbruck and Munich!). This got us into town around 5pm where we had a walk of around a mile to the Youth Hostel where we would stay the night. In the evening we had a bit of a look around town and cathedral and got dinner at a pizzeria in the main square.

The next morning we stocked up on lunch supplies at a supermarket then embarked on our almost-entirely-uphill walk to the Plosehütte, an ascent of around 1900 metres. Views of the Austrian Alps gradually opened up as we climbed up through the forest, and the final stretch along the ridge gave our first proper Dolomites views towards the limestone cliffs of the Odle massif. We were lucky to end up in a private room and had a good night’s sleep at around 2450m.

Tuesday was a cloudier day with many of the summits in the cloud, but we still enjoyed plenty of grand views of close-up limestone cliffs on our walk down to Passo Rodella, then around Sas de Putia and the Odle group to the superbly-situated Rifugio Firenze. The approach to Furcella della Roa gave a good taste of typical AV2 paths, traversing below towering cliffs on and zigzagging up and down surprisingly stable scree gullies to dramatic cols. We arrived well before the afternoon thunderstorm and enjoyed a tasty hut dinner. Surprisingly there were no snorers in the 25-bed dorm and we again got a reasonable night’s sleep!


Wednesday morning’s walking took us across the wild Puez altipiano (high plain), the route making its way around the head of the dramatic Vallunga valley, then over a couple of rocky cols and down to Passo Gardena. Then we had a very steep ascent onto the Sella altipiano, including some straightforward scrambly passages aided by fixed cables, up to Rifugio Pisciadu and beyond to Rifugio Boè for the night.


On Thursday we started the day with the short ascent to Piz Boè, the highest point of our trip at 3152m. This was a superb vantage point with the Sella altipiano to the west, the Marmolada and its glaciers to the south, and a cloud inversion to the east. We spent a while on the summit just enjoying the surroundings in perfect conditions, then continued over the plateau to the lower peak of Sas de Pordoi, and from there steeply down to Passo Pordoi. The rest of the day was spent traversing the Sas de Ciapel ridge with awesome views of the Marmolada, then walking alongside Lago di Fedaia to our guest-house for the night, Rifugio Capanna Bill – a night of relative luxury with a private en-suite room and scenic balcony views!



Friday’s walk took us down the pass to Malga Ciapela where were able to re-supply with lunches for the remainder of the expedition, then up and over Forca Rossa to the tourist hotspot of Passo San Pellegrino. There was lots of pleasant walking through forest and pasture, but the scenery was generally not as dramatic as the preceding few days. Saturday took us back among the high peaks, with a short traverse to Passo Valles followed by an exciting climb into the Pale di San Martino massif, traversing around Monte Mulaz to reach Rifugio Mulaz, nestled below the amazing Focobon ridge. After dropping off most of our gear at the hut, we made a lightly-laden ascent of Monte Mulaz, often in cloud but still giving awesome fleeting views of the surrounding peaks.


We enjoyed more inversion conditions on Sunday’s stage, crossing a couple of high cols then making a gradual descending traverse into a remote basin, and up over the altipiano to Rifugio Rosetta. After a short detour up nearby La Rosetta, sadly in mist, we continued below on more exposed ledge paths with cabled sections to Passo di Ball, surrounded by more towering peaks. Our destination for the night was Rifugio Pradidali, another stunningly-situated hut at the base of huge limestone cliffs.



Monday began with a short cable-aided climb up to Passo delle Lede followed by a long descent down the remote Vallon delle Lede the other side to Rifugio Treviso. A second steep climb over Forcella d’Oltro took us out of the Pale di San Martino group to end the day at Passo Cereda, where the eponymous Rifugio was our least favourite of the trip, with high prices for a gloomy room and disorganised service!

The final couple of days of the expedition was through the Dolimiti Bellunesi National Park. This began with a steep and exposed ascent to Passo del Comedon giving access to a high level traverse path below the Cimonega peaks to Rifugio Boz for the night. The next day we continued along the Vette ridge with more dramatic cloud conditions all around to end the day at Rifugio Dal Piaz, which definitely had the feeling of being at the edge of the big mountains and a fitting place for our last hut night.




That just left a half-day descent through the forest to Feltre for the final Thursday morning. From there a bus and train took us easily to Venice for a couple of nights… which can be the subject of a separate blog post!
Many more of my photos, giving a much fuller representation of the walk, are available on Google Photos in the following albums:
Days 1-5: Plose, Odle, Puez, Sella and Marmolada:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/reErurKzrGswfu8W7
Days 6-8: Pale di San Martino:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/ES5Y7soMDNWG9qxZ8
Days 9-11: Cimonega and Vette:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/NKTaoqruYYzuwzmu9
Overall we were very impressed by the Alta Via 2 and would highly recommend it to anyone looking for a rugged mountain expedition through incredible and distinctive scenery, but without technical difficulties requiring anything more than confidence on rough, loose ground and good head for heights. Although the huts were mostly fairly busy, the majority were not totally full, and only a minority of the guests were actually following the AV2. Away from the tourist hotspots around lifts and road passes, the paths were delightfully quiet and we often walked a couple of hours without passing anyone else.
We move fast through the mountains and were generally able to complete the stages in about 70% of the guidebook time, which meant even our lengthened stages were mostly not very strenuous. With hindsight we might have cut down the number of days by a couple more, although the locations of huts are not always amenable to this, and it was definitely no hardship to spend a few hours relaxing in stunning scenery each afternoon before dinner! We may well return to tackle one of the more technical AV routes further east in the Dolomites, and perhaps some proper vie ferrate.































